Woodfire Grill

Our final night over Christmas break in Atlanta was spent dining at Woodfire Grill. We made these reservations months ago; as soon as we knew we would be spending the holidays in metro Atlanta. The executive chef at Woodfire Grill is Kevin Gillespie; famous for being a finalist on Bravo's Top Chef reality show. What an amazing meal we were treated to!

Dining with a few members f my wife's family, we started off with a bottle of the NV Luis De Grenelle brut rose, Saumur. Sparkling wine made from 100% Cabernet Franc from France's Loire Valley, this was a bit too herbal for my palate. But it was a decent enough starter.

Right after we were seated, the staff brought us an amuse bouche consisting of radish, whipped butter, celery and fresh taragon. I'm not a huge fan of raw celery (okay, I hate it) but this was quite light and refreshing. And it paired nicely with the last sips of our rose sparkler.

The first course of the 5-course chef's tasting menu was a salad of razor-thin shaved fennel, citrus fruits, pomegranate seed and tahini sauce. I've had numerous fennel/citrus salads before, but what really made this one special was the creamy tahini that provided a perfect balance to the tart citrus. It was expertly paired with the 2009 Champ du Roy Blanc de Coupe Roses, Cotes de Brian AOC; a minerally blend of Viognier, Muscat, Grenache Blanc and Marsanne.

Since I am allergic to shellfish, I was presented with a plate of chestnut flour hushpuppies while the rest of the party enjoyed a seared day boat diver scallop. This was paired with the rich, butterscotchy 2008 Terredora Dipaolo Loggia Della Serra Greco di Tufo DOCG. I'm not sure exactly how good hushpuppies can be, but these were pretty damn tasty. Everyone else at the table agreed that the scallop was the best that they had ever had.

Next came one of the most amazing small tastes that I have ever had the pleasure of experiencing. The warm potato and white truffle soup with black malt powder and fresh chives is presented in a shot glass and paired with the ubiquitous NV Veuve Cliquot brut, Champagne. Although the Champagne was strangely oxidized, but potato soup was, in a word, sublime. Words really can't describe the silky richness and deep, earthy flavors. I'm not ashamed to admit to taking a butter knife to my shot glass and scraping out the very last small drops! A truly amazing moment.

The first meat course was the breast of local bobwhite quail (grilled over wood, of course) with dried cranberries, roasted cauliflower and sunchokes. A streak of "liquid sweet potato pie" adorns the plate and balances the salty, smoky game. This course was matched with the 2008 Jean Francois Merieau Gamay, Touraine, AOC. This Gamay had an herbal pepperiness that spoke of Touraine, yet retained a lot of the bright raspberry/cherry fruit that one would expect from a Gamay from Beaujolais. A very nice pairing with the quail.

When we made reservations at Woodfire almost nine months ago, I was just hoping for one thing: a chance to try pork belly prepared by Kevin Gillespie. I had seen him do pork belly a few times on Top Chef and this is the one thing I really, really wanted out of my experience at Woodfire. And the fourth course did not disappoint. It was smoked belly and loin of Berkshire pork served with farro risotto and a smoked onion vinaigrette. Of all the things I've had to eat over the past 41+ years, I think this ranks at the very top of the pyramid. The belly was so incredibly tender and rich that a 2" cube was more than enough. I'm not sure exactly how Gillespie accomplishes this texture, but I suspect it is smoked and braised before being seared just before service. Something that simply must be tasted to be believed. The ever-faithful 2009 Bodegas Borsao Tres Picos Garnacha, Campo de Borja DO displayed all of the beautiful raspberry and vanilla flavors that I've come to expect from this wine. Another very nice pairing.

To be honest, I thought the dessert course was something of a throwaway. The maple mascarpone and chocolate sorbet were tasty enough, but they were sadly overpowered by a dense chocolate graham cracker crust. A small glass of the delicious Quady Elysium Black Muscat, California would have probably been enough for dessert.

As great as the food was, I have to say I was a bit disappointed by the service. It seems like we had a different team of servers present each course to us. And one more than one occasion a server would have to go back to the kitchen to get the details of a dish or answer a question we had about it. (That being said, I appreciate that more than a server who makes up a lie to cover for his lack of knowledge of a dish.) And the server who poured the wines for us made numerous factual errors in presenting the wines. He gave us the wrong blend of the Champ du Roy, told us about the "great" 2010 Beaujolais Nouveau rather than mentioning anything about Gamay grown in the Loire, didn't know the grape that goes into Greco di Tufo wines (hint: Greco is the grape and the name of the region), etc. Yes, I understand that 99% of the people dining there probably don't care about stuff like that, but as a wine geek, I appreciate the attention to detail.

Overall, I would give the food here 5 stars (out of 5) and the service 3.5 stars. I highly recommend reservations here if you are in the Atlanta area. And I don't think $90/person for a 5-course meal and 5 glasses of wine is outrageous for this kind of quality and originality.

2008 Bennett Lane Turn 4 Cabernet

We have a family tradition of spending New Year's eve at home playing games and just enjoying time with each other. Tonight it was a cutthroat game of "Life" on the Wii with an assortment of cheeses, sausages, crackers, etc. The kids drank milk while the Mrs. and I enjoyed the 2008 Bennett Lane Turn 4 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley. Fantastic color with a pretty magenta rim. Very expressive nose of licorice, graphite, black fruits and French oak. Quite full on the palate with moderate tannins and fierce acidity. Framboise and oak flavors dominate with a long, buttery finish. Packs quite a wallop for $20. Drinks well now, but has aging potential as well.

2008 Treasure Hunter Cabernet Sauvignon

Okay, folks, I have to be honest here. When I saw this wine come into the store I was more than a bit hesitant. I've been a big fan of the monster Cabs from Napa Valley's Diamond Mountain District for some time now; particularly those from von Strasser. But most Cabernets from this notoriously rugged volcanic soil retail from $50 to well north of three digits. So I looked at this wine for a few days wondering to myself how on earth someone could possibly release a decent Cabernet Sauvignon from Diamond Mountain for a mere $25. This wine simply had to be either total plonk or one of the steals of the year....

Don't let the straight-out-of-Pirates-of-the-Caribbean label fool you. The 2008 Treasure Hunter Radio Caroline Cabernet Sauvignon, Diamond Mountain District is a seriously good Cab-ARRGH-net Sauvignon. Jet black in color, the wine features aromas and flavors of tar, mineral, dry cocoa powder and rustic, briery black fruit. You can almost taste the rocky, volcanic soil the wines struggle to grow in. Fiercely tannic with screeching acidity, I have little doubt this wine could easily age a decade or longer.

Treasure Hunter is a negociant operation that cellars and bottles a myriad of wines including a number of Napa and Sonoma Cabernets, a Grenache from Santa Barbara, a couple of proprietary red blends and even an Alexander Valley Chardonnay. If all of their wines are as good as the Radio Caroline, then it is worth keeping an eye on this winery.

2009 Sean Minor Pinot Noir

The 2009 Sean Minor Four Bears Pinot Noir, Carneros is just another in a long line of unbelievable values from this producer. Pretty, clear ruby-magenta color. In addition to the black cherry and vanilla, the nose reveals a note of sweet herb (thyme, lavender) that I have not noticed in previous vintages. Subtle usage of French oak is appreciated. On the palate, it is medium-bodied by Pinot Noir standards with beautiful berry flavors and tangy acidity that makes you crave the next sip. Moderate tannins and a charred note on the finish. Amazing Pinot Noir for $15.

I'm quickly running out of superlatives for this, my favorite value brand in all of California. I cut my teeth on wine in the early-90s when $15 would buy a solid bottle of Cabernet from Markham, Chateau Souverain or Beringer. It's nice to see someone still making quality for for the same price nearly 20 years later.

I would love to see what he could do with some Zinfandel, Syrah or Grenache....

2007 Bourgeois "Cuvee Stephi"

Enjoyed the inexpensive little 2007 Bourgeois Family Cuvee Stephi Grenache Syrah, Roussillon tonight. Very decent cranberry color. Nose of cranberry, raspberry, lavender and maybe even a hint of meat. Tart cranberry/raspberry fruit on the palate is supported by sweet herbs. The purity of the Grenache fruit really shines through as this wine is not aged in any oak. Syrah adds body and a bit of peppery spice on the finish. Would make a nice partner for grilled sausages, ratatouille or other hearty Mediterranean fare.

2008 Enkidu Cabernet Sauvignon

As a huge fan of Enkidu's Rosso Fazekas Sangiovese blend, I was quite excited to get my hands on a bottle of their Cabernet Sauvignon last week. The 2008 Enkidu Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma Valley displays a very dark color with a more than a hint of unfiltered cloudiness. there isn't a whole lot of fruit in this wine. Once you enjoy the whiff of plum and loam on the nose, the wine quickly delves into secondary, oak-driven characteristics of licorice, roasted coffee and dry cocoa. Medium-full-bodied with grippy tannins and nice acidity. Finishes with a long, buttery, coffee-like flavor. Delicious; provided you aren't averse to a lot of oak. Drink now.

First egg...!!!

We found our first egg in the chicken coop yesterday afternoon! Hooray! I guess that means we're "official" now.

The coop is in a state of transformation right now as we've removed all of the wooden wine boxes and burned them. Turns out that while the wood crates looked pretty cool, open top roosting boxes simply aren't practical for raising chickens. Apparently, if the chickens aren't busy laying eggs, they prefer to spend their time perching and pooping. And with no tops on the boxes, the boxes were quickly being filled with poop. And the fact that they were screwed into the wall made them difficult to take off and clean.

So we've now purchased a commercial grade steel and plastic nesting station with 6 stalls with removable floors. And the roof is sloped; discouraging perching on top. So while I'm in the garage yesterday afternoon putting this thing together and freezing my fingers off, my wife shows me the egg she just found in the coop.

Its brown and pretty tiny - maybe half the size of an egg you'd get in a grocery store. But we're pretty excited about it. The chickens are a week shy of 6 months old; the age at which they are supposed to start laying. I guess I'll spend my afternoon affixing the new roosting set-up to the wall. Hopefully we'll have plenty of more eggs soon!

2003 Paul Blanck Pinot Gris

Dinner tonight was my take on Jamie Oliver's Turkey and Sweet Leek Pie. I couldn't find any chestnuts here in the greater Paola, KS area so I had to make do with an unadorned puff pastry crust. And I used the last of my pheasant breast (poached in pheasant stock all day long) in place of turkey. The pie was, in a word, ridiculous. So delicious and rich with the flaky crust, tender pheasant breast, fresh herbs and decadent gravy. The perfect, steamy dinner to warm the cockles of my heart when it's 16 degrees and snowy with a steady 30 mph wind.

The wine I opened wasn't a perfect match. In fact, it was far from perfect as it was much too sweet to pair with the savory, upscale pot pie. But on its own, it was delicious. The 2003 Paul Blanck Pinot Gris, Alsace shows an advanced, golden color - but nothing unexpected considering the wine's age. The nose is alive with a veritable fruit cocktail of sweet fruits: pear, apricot, peach and more than a hint of petrol. The palate is oily and thick with flavors of petrol and ripe apricot. Acidity is fading, but still lively. Suffers a touch from a bitter, clipped finish. Considerably sweeter than I had hoped for. At this age, I think this would be a tremendous wine with seared foie gras or a simple cheese plate. About $24.

2008 Wallace Brook Pinot Gris

Enjoyed the delicious 2008 Wallace Brook Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley tonight with a homemade pizza inspired by internet acquaintance Mel Hill. Mel, a professional photographer, featured a picture of a pizza he topped with creme fraiche, melted leeks and diced steelhead tout on his Facebook page and I knew I had to try my hand at duplicating it. To no one's surprise, there was no steelhead trout or leeks at Wal*Mart the other day so I made do with salmon and scallions. In a word: stunning. What a great pizza. The crust was cracker thin (I think the creme fraiche had something to do with that) and the diced salmon, placed raw on the pizza, was cooked perfectly after 10 minutes at 500 degrees. I'll definitely be making this one again. Maybe next time I'll lightly smoke the salmon beforehand.

The pizza in the background, by the way, was made with fresh pesto, mozzarella, leftover shredded chicken and red onions. This one is already in the regular rotation.

The wine was a great partner with the pizza. Beautiful aromatics and flavors of fresh pear, granny smith apple, lemon and mineral. Medium-bodied with just a hint of yeast and smoke. Bracing acidity keeps everything lively. Rumor has it this is declassified Pinot Gris from Adelsheim. A ridiculous value at $11 or so.

2008 Viu Manet Reserva Carmenere

Carmenere is a grape that was one widely planted in Bordeaux. But due to disease and ripening issues, it is no longer found in the Medoc. But it thrives in Chile today where it is used in red wine blends as well as varietal bottlings. I don't claim to have a whole lot of experience with this grape, but the ones I've had have mostly left me rather unimpressed. Not surprisingly, this example fared no better.

The 2008 Viu Manet Reserva Carmenere, Colchagua Valley has a pretty, medium crimson color. Very reminiscent of a Chilean Merlot, the nose features aromas of green tobacco, bay leaf and tart red fruit. The palate is dusty and tannic with tart red fruit, tobacco, sage and hickory flavors. Although this wine may appeal to fans of "value" Bordeaux and Merlot, it is just too unripe and green for my palate. I would recommend drinking this now; assuming of course, this is a flavor profile that you enjoy.

That being said, it may do a fine job of accompanying something like stuffed peppers, fish coubillion, fajitas or another dish featuring bell peppers

2003 Terry Hoage "Hedge" Syrah

I had the day off today so, after doing some chicken coop cleaning duties, I had plenty of time to smoke a rack of babyback ribs for dinner. With smoky, spicy foods, I always reach for a big, fat California Syrah or Rhone-style blend and tonight I was inspired to open the last of my 2003 Terry Hoage Vineyards The Hedge Syrah, Paso Robles. I've been following Terry's Central Coast efforts since he was supplying grapes for Mat Garretson's Bulladoir Syrah. This particular bottle is inky-black and cloudy (obviously unfiltered) with notes of blackberry, mulling spices, French oak and considerable alcohol on the nose. The palate is dominated by murky berries, pencil lead and the aforementioned mulling spices. Very low acid. Tannins suggest aging a few more years, but I wonder if there will be any fruit/acid left. Perfect pairing with the BBQ ribs. About $30 upon release.

As nice as this wine was with the food, it reinforces my notion that these wines are not built to age. Enjoy these Central Coast Syrahs in their youth for all their glorious fruit, spice and tannins, but drink them up young with appropriate cuisine.

After removing the membrane I rubbed the ribs down with a home made rub and smoked them over a combination of hickory and apple wood for about three hours. At the table, I hit them with a little bit of Meat Mitch Whomp! BBQ Sauce. This was from a sample bottle that was dropped off at work last week. It's very sugary sweet with upfront cherry/raspberry fruit that quickly turns very spicy and peppery. Too spicy for my kids, but just right for me. Really needs one of these fruit-forward Paso Robles wines to balance that heat.

2006 Tobin James Petite Verdot

Dinner tonight was one of my favorite meals. A little something I call "mixed grill" that consists of Italian sausage and whatever veggies I can slice up and throw on the grill. I ended up with squash, zucchini and eggplant tonight. When everything is done, I slice the sausage, pile everything on the plate and dress it with a bit of olive oil, a pinch of chili flakes and some fresh herbs. Naturally, the dish calls for a rustic wine.

The 2006 Tobin James James Gang Reserve Petite Verdot, Paso Robles fits the bill perfectly as a deeply-flavored, rustic wine that matches perfectly with the grilled sausages. Fantastic color with aromas and flavors of tart cranberry, intense licorice and American oak flavors. The American oak, thankfully, fades into the background the longer the wine is open. Massive tannins, of course, are an indication of why winemakers like to add a bit of this to Bordeaux-style blends that need a little more body. But my favorite thing about this wine is the texture. It's rich without being heavy and it has this fabulous chalkiness that just coats your entire mouth and sticks around seemingly forever. Worth every penny of $38.

Overall, I don't think Paso Robles is a great place to look for Bordeaux varietals. When I was there about 18 months ago, I fell in love with the Rhone varietals and Zinfandels. But in addition to the stunning Cabernets from Dunning and Adelaida, Tobin James has really hit a home run with this underrated grape. Bravo!

2000 Noval "Silval" Vintage Porto

Since we didn't have any cheap Ruby Port available for fresh cranberry sauce, I opened this inexpensive little gem. I've had a few of these over the past few years and I've always been impressed. Delivers all the punch of a nice Vintage Port for the price of an LBV. It's no surprise, even at 10 years old, that the 2000 Quinta do Noval Silval Vintage Porto retains its saturated purple color. Slightly murky, it doesn't appear to have aged one bit. Beautiful aromas of graham cracker, black licorice, freshly-crushed berries and just enough alcohol to remind you that you're drinking Vintage Port. Quite sweet on the palate with waves of the aforementioned berry fruit and licorice. The nicely-balanced fruit, tannins and acidity suggest the wine is just now starting to hit its stride and will develop in the cellar for at least another decade; perhaps longer. Not bad for a $30 bottle of Port. Delicious with a handful of bittersweet chocolate chips.

2006 Tor Grenache, 2007 Rosenblum Monte Rosse Zinfandel

Well, you only turn 41 once, so I decided to celebrate with one of my favorite meals - braised lamb shanks over soft, cheesy polenta. This time I decided to up the ante by smoking the shanks over hickory wood for about 30 minutes before nestling them into a warm bath of Chicken stock, wine and aromatics for a few hours. The shanks were, of course, delicious. Fall-off-the-bone tender with just a subtle hint of smoke.


The owners of the wine store where I work were kind enough to let me pick out a bottle to take home for my birthday so I splurged on something I've had my eye on for quite a while now. The 2006 Tor Kenward ROCK Cuvee Cooper Judge Family Vineyards Grenache, Bennett Valley has a fantastic color, slightly cloudy, and obviously unfiltered. It starts off with a lot of Bourbon/American oak on the nose that gradually surrenders to copious amounts of sweet raspberry and herb. There are also lingering notes of freshly cut fennel bulb and a meaty/salami quality. Roasted meat, earthy raspberry and Provencal herbs on the palate. Moderate tannins, acidity. Ready to drink now. This is a delicious wine, but I can't help but think it's a bit overpriced at $60.



The other wine we enjoyed over dinner that night was the 2007 Rosenblum Reserve Zinfandel, Monte Rosso Vineyard, Sonoma Valley. I know I drank through quite a few Ravenswood Monte Rosse Vineyard Zinfandels in the mid-late 90s, but I think this was my first experience with Rosenblum's Zinfandel from this vineyard. Crazy blackberry (bordering on over-ripe), cake spice, vanilla and latex dominate the nose. Wonderfully rustic blackberry, spice and brier on the palate. Obvious aging in American oak. Low acid, tannins. A definite early drinker. Hold on - it's a wild ride!

Pheasant Hunting and 2007 Conn Creek Herrick Red

I spent last weekend on my first ever hunting trip. I joined my father-in-law and my wife's boss at Highland Hideaway Hunting in Riverside, Iowa. What a great time. We went out three times and came back in with 10-13 birds each time; a good mix of pheasant roosters, pheasant hens and chukars. Despite just limited shotgun experience shooting at clay pigeons in my back yard, I turned out to be a pretty decent shot in the field. I made some pretty impressive shots. And I missed a couple of easy ones that I should've hit. Natural skill? Beginner's luck? Who knows? Regardless, it was a hell of a good time. I look forward to more upland hunting; hopefully making this an annual event.

Yesterday, my father-in-law and I brought home the breasts of 21 birds pheasants. Tonight's dinner was pheasant breast wrapped in applewood smoked bacon and slowly smoked over a combination of apple and hickory wood. While the birds were smoking, I made a fairly straightforward red wine risotto to which a handful of shredded radicchio was wilted for a few minutes. The breasts were sliced for presentation and fanned over the risotto. Simply delicious. And you'd be hard-pressed to find fresher pheasant breast!

The accompanying wine was the 2007 Conn Creek Herrick Red, Napa Valley - a blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with small percentages of Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot. Beautiful color with aromas of roasted coffee bean and mocha with warm, dark fruits, coffee and carob on the palate. Nice structure and tannins with an interesting note of orange peel on the finish. You could lay this new blend down for a couple of years or enjoy it now, as I did, with hearty fare.

2009 Willow Crest Pinot Gris

Last night, a corked bottle of wine laid waste to my plans for a sublime food and wine pairing. But tonight I have to take the blame for blowing it as the home made cabbage rolls didn't get cooked in time for dinner. So I grazed on nuts and cheese as I made a couple of grilled cheese sandwiches for the kids. C'est la vie!

But that didn't stop me from opening the wine I was planning on having with the cabbage rolls. And I'm mighty glad I opened it! The 2009 Willow Crest Estate Grown Pinot Gris, Yakima Valley is a beautiful rendition of this grape at a ridiculously low price. It has a hint of that brassy color that I really dig in Pinot Gris. The nose is alive with notes of orange peel, cardamom, sweet thyme and ripe apricot. The flavors on the palate mimic the nose with the ripe apricot leading the way. Fantastic viscosity and juicy acidity that makes your mouth scream for another sip. A great value in the $12 range.

2008 Patianna Sauvignon Blanc

Patianna Estate Vineyards is a fairly new project in the Fetzer family of wines. It's all organic and biodynamic; something I respect and appreciate even if I don't exactly go out of my way to support such ventures. I'm really more interested in just drinking good wine. If it's organic or biodynamic, then that's great. If not, that's fine, too.

While I really wanted to enjoy the 2008 Patianna Estate Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc, Mendocino, in the end I just couldn't. I drank this over three days hoping that some time on air would help tame the ferocious acidity and sulfur, but it never did come around to my liking. The color is a typically pale golden as you'd expect a 100% stainless steel Sauvignon Blanc to be. The nose offers some faint, New Zealand-like notes of gooseberry and herb, but there just isn't enough of it to hold my interest. The palate is a train wreck of dry, herbaceous flavors, shrill acidity and sulfuric component that is just off the charts. I know wines certified biodynamic can't have any added sulfites. I really wonder just how much naturally occurring sulfites the grapes pick up in the vineyard. Notes were consistent over three days of drinking the wine at temperatures ranging from right out of the refrigerator to room temp. I never could find a "sweet spot."

I'm really scratching my head wondering how this wine garnered such a fat rating from Wine Enthusiast. We were clearly drinking two different wines.....

2008 La Flor Pulenta Cabernet

I hate the idea of a cork in a bottle of wine. I really hate it. The wine I had planned on enjoying with tonight's dinner (spicy homemade meatballs in tomato sauce tossed with pasta) was one of the long, long list of wines I've had that was tainted with TCA. So back to the store it will go for a replacement bottle. Not a huge deal to replace, but it screwed up my food/wine experience and it could have been even worse had I had a fancy dinner planned with expensive food, guests and all. So I went back into the cellar and just grabbed something red that I've been wanting to try.

I came back upstairs with the 2008 La Flor Pulenta Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza. I've had and enjoyed a number of wines from the Pulenta line-up, and their younger, less expensive La Flor line, over the past year or so and this was no exception. The 2008 Cabernet has a pretty ruby color and an inviting nose of green tobacco, wintergreen, earth and worn saddle leather. No California fruit bomb here, the aromas follow through to the palate where they are joined by sweet/tart raspberry fruit, bay leaf, green olive and moderate, dusty tannins. Quite simply, this is the "green" side of Cabernet (tobacco, olive, etc.) done right. There's no underripe fruit or nasty green bell pepper flavors here. It's just a pretty, restrained interpretation of the grape that I suspect speaks to the terroir.

It didn't go with the spicy meatballs at all. But I can't hold that against it as this kind of wine was never intended to accompany such food. So that was a wash.

And I know I bring this up every damn time I review something from Argentina, but why can't they consistently turn out wines of this quality for this price in California these days? Is real estate on the left coast just too expensive? I haven't had a $15 Napa Cabernet this deep and complex in nearly 20 years.

2007 Hudson Shah Cabernet

Opened this one tonight just for the hell of it. It's one of the Wine of the Month wines at work and I'm duty-bound to try them so I can talk about them with out wine club members. Yep, it's a tough job...but someone's gotta do it!

The 2007 Hudson Shah Cabernet Sauvignon, Rattlesnake Hills has quite a decent color for a wine in this price range. Pleasant nose of light red fruits and mocha with an unexpected note of new leather. On the palate, it is medium-bodied with sweet/tart red fruits like cranberry, strawberry and cherry. Although aged in both American and French oak, it's the slightly dilly American oak that becomes more prominent the longer it gets air.

Medium-bodied with moderate tannins and acidity, I don't think this one will get any better with time in the cellar. Enjoy now for under $15.

2008 Dunning Vineyards Vin de Casa

We got our bi-annual shipment of Dunning Vineyards about two weeks ago. Amazing enough, I was able to keep my hands off it until last night when I opened the 2008 Dunning Vineyards Vin de Casa, Paso Robles. This is their entry-level blend of 45% Cabernet Franc, 35% Zinfandel and 20% Syrah. You may recall that I posted a note on this wine back in May. Last night's experience was pretty similar with the nose of dusty cherries, licorice, vanilla and alcohol. Six months ago, the herbaceous element to the wine was pretty much limited to the finish. But last night, there was a distinct note of bay leaf on the palate. I can only assume this is the Cabernet Franc's way of asserting itself now that the wine has been in bottle for a little over a year now. The wine seems to have picked up a bit of weight, too, as it is considerably more tannic and acidic than I remember. A big, serious wine for about $25.

Foodwise, it probably needs something more substantial than last night's homemade pizza. It could easily stand up to a big steak.

2009 Corvidae "Crowe" White Blend

Really enjoyed the 2009 Corvidae Crowe White Wine Blend, Columbia Valley this evening with leftover pork tenderloin that I turned into ersatz fajitas. This bone dry blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Gris and Muscat is light and charming with notes of white flowers, grass and tropical fruit on the nose and palate and a nice bit of bitter orange (undoubtedly from the Muscat) on the finish. Nothing at all to complain about here for $10. Bravo!

2007 Ave Gran Riserva Malbec

I drink a lot of Argentinian Malbec because I really like the flavor profile as well as the fact that you can get outstanding examples all day long for $15-25. But I don't think I've yet had one like the 2007 Ave Gran Riserva Malbec, Mendoza. The first thing you notice is the color which is much darker than most Malbecs. The nose is freakishly extracted with espresso, mocha, citrus oil and cherry cough syrup. The palate follows through with more of the cherry cough syrup and citrus flavors. The tannins are fierce and the acid is off the charts. Finish is a bit clipped. Hides the 14.2% alcohol pretty well.

To be honest, the acidity makes it pretty hard to enjoy without food. And it even managed to completely overpower tonight's pork tenderloin (grilled over apple and hickory) with chimichurri sauce. Not for the faint of heart. You'll definitely want to open this one with a well-marbled ribeye or KC strip. About $24.

2009 Joel Gott Riesling, 2007 Linne Calodo Problem Child

We had a great day at the farm today. We broke in the new pressure washer cleaning out the chicken coop and then took all the decomposing, er, stuff out of out plastic rotary compost bin and transferred it to a larger wooden bin that we can add to freely. By next spring we should have plenty of nitrogen-enriched mulch to add to the organic garden.

After a long day's work I threw a rack of ribs on the smoker and waited for the smoke and low heat to work their magic. While we were waiting (and discussing future plans for sheep) we downed a bottle of 2009 Joel Gott Riesling, Columbia Valley. Better than I expected, this pale wine with green highlights shows a lot of green apple and yeasty aromas and flavors. Reminds me of a very nice Champagne; albeit without the bubbles. Nice acidity and just a hint of sweetness. Quite a good wine for about $10.

The ribs were just amazing. I rubbed them down with a pretty aggressive home made seasoning mix and then smoked them over a combination of apple and hickory wood. I go about 3 hours on my ribs as I like them to maintain a bit of texture. To me, if a rib "falls off the bone" its a bit overcooked.



The wine we opened was the 2007 Linne Calodo Problem Child, Paso Robles. Before I talk about the wine a bit of background about our experience at the winery. We visited there about 18 months ago as a part of our trip to Carmel and Paso Robles. The wines at Linne Calodo were by far the most expensive we encountered while we were there and the woman at the tasting room bar was far from friendly. And I think this was the only winery we visited that didn't waive the tasting fee even after we purchased 2 bottles of wine. In other words, this wasn't exactly a model of customer service. But damn the wines were good. I guess if your wines are that good and that in demand you can afford to cut corners?

Anyway, the Problem Child is a blend of 72% Zinfandel, 16% Syrah and 12% Mourvedre. Far from complex, the wine shows an uncanny aroma and flavor of pomegranate syrup. Unbelievably thick on the palate with outstanding acid and tannin. Quite the one-trick pony, but it's the equivalent of your pony reciting the Declaration of Independence. At $50, I'm not sure I'd buy another bottle, but I'm glad I bought the one I did. A great wine to enjoy with smoked ribs or any other form of BBQ.

2008 Enkidu Rosso Fazekas

If the last two wines have been disappointing, tonight's wine more than made up for it. I was very impressed with the 2008 Enkidu Rosso Fazekas E, Napa Valley. The wine is a complex blend of 86% Sangiovese and 7% each of Syrah and Petit Sirah. All of the beautiful, bitter cherry, licorice, dust and almond extract I look for in a good Sangiovese with a spice component which, no doubt, comes from the Syrah and Petit Sirah. Considerably more tannic than I thought it would be. It should go without saying that the acidity is off the charts. Whiff of vanilla from the French oak, but the oak is definitely relegated to a supporting role. Think of it as a Super Tuscan with an injection of Napa Valley fruit.

Sublime paired with grilled Italian sausage tossed with penne pasta and a quick tomato cream sauce.

2008 Permutations Pinot Noir

I've never been a fan of Pinot Noir from Down Under; Australia or New Zealand. I've always found them to be too lean, tart and under-ripe for my California-centric palate. And the 2008 R Wines Permutations Pinot Noir, Victoria does little to change my impression. The color is rather transparent as I would expect a Pinot Noir at this price point to be. But I won't hold that against it. The nose is redolent of herbs and tart cranberry fruit. Rather lean and taut on the palate with herbal, tart fruit influence. Firmly acidic - I suppose this might show better paired with something like an herb-crusted pork tenderloin. Bit of buttery oak on the finish.

I'm not in the habit of saving wines for day two, but I had a bit of this left over from last night. After 24 hours or so, it seems to have picked up a bit of weight and sweetness, but not enough to make me want to recommend it to anyone I like. About $11.

2004 Finca Museum Crianza

My sister-in-law makes the most terrific coconut cake you'd ever want to put in your mouth. It's moist and delicious and oh-so-coconutty. Unfortunately, that's the exact same impression I get from the 2004 Finca Museum Crianza, Cigales. The American oak is so powerful on this wine that it all but obliterates anything else that might be lurking in the bottle. Just tons of coconut and dill on the nose and palate. There's a little bit of dark cherry and leather, two things I look for in Tempranillo-based wines, on the palate but it's just beat to death with the oak. Nice color and all. Quite dry. But the oak is something I just can't get past in this one. Long, long coconut finish - I'll bet you can guess where that comes from. Might appeal to fans of Silver Joke, er Silver Oak.

Loring Wine Company/Charity auction

I volunteered a few hours of my time this evening to pour wine at a charity event benefiting the Crittenton Children's Center. It was great to see so many people out enjoying food and wine for such a good cause. I had the distinct pleasure of pouring two wines generously donated by Brian Loring.

For the last 15 years or so, Loring's attention has been focused on one grape: Pinot Noir. But for the 2009 vintage, Brian Loring has released his first Chardonnay. And as far as I know, I was pouring tonight's wine from the first case of his Chardonnay to make it into the state of Kansas. And, oh my, what a Chardonnay it is! The 2009 Loring Wine Company Sierra Mar Vineyard Chardonnay, Santa Lucia Highlands shows a deep golden color and an unctuous viscosity in the glass. Loring's Chardonnay is unapologetically fat and rich with notes of butter, fresh-baked brioche, vanilla, toast and baked apple. Yet there is plenty of acid and minerality to keep the wine fresh and lively. I don't typically drink a lot of Chardonnay, but I highly recommend this for fans of the style or those of us who occasionally want a "guilty pleasure" to enjoy with a rich seafood dish. I cannot begin to tell you how many people were asking me about the availability of this in the Kansas market or what the approximate retail price would be. I certainly hope to see locally, but only time will tell.

The red wine I was pouring was the 2008 Loring Wine Company Russell Family Vineyard Pinot Noir, Paso Robles. I as reminded throughout the evening that this was a crowd favorite. Paso Robles is more known for its Zinfandels and Rhone-style grapes and this wine is true to that spicy heritage. The inky black wine fills the glass with aromas and flavors of blackberry, dark cherry, mocha and black pepper. I can't recall ever picking up this much pepper in a glass of Pinot Noir. I f tasted blind, I would've probably guessed this was a medium-bodied Zinfandel. Wonderfully structured with fine tannins and acidity complementing the in your face fruit and a finish that just doesn't quit. Once again, I do not know how much of this limited production wine (only 300 cases produced) will ultimately reach the Kansas City market. But I will keep my eyes open for it and pounce on a couple of bottles if I see any.

I was partnered at my table with some old friends from A Wine Flights Bar and Bistro. They were serving bite-sized portions of their wonderful Bistecca Porcini appetizer - seared filet mignon on a nugget of porcini mushroom with blue cheese and a reduction of port wine and dried cherries. A delicious appetizer that I fondly remember helping create back when I was a bartender there. It was particularly nice with the cherry and spice notes of the Pinot Noir.

Thanks to everyone who donated their time, resources and/or organizational skills to make this such a wonderful evening!

2005 Stoller Chardonnay

With the better part of a pound of crimini mushrooms languishing the refrigerator, I knew a mushroom cream sauce was destined to bless our roasted chicken tonight. And while this is usually a Pinot Noir meal for me, tonight I decided to go with a full-bodied white. The 2005 Stoller Chardonnay, Dundee Hills is starting to show its age. But despite the advanced golden color, it still has plenty of life in it. The nose is quite complex with heady aromas of butterscotch, overripe apple, caramel and a hint of burnt matchstick. I'm really loving the palate with its earthy-mushroom, borderline truffle flavors and toasty French oak. No surprise that the flavors marry perfectly with the mushroom cream sauce. Like most good whites, it gets better and better as it approaches room temperature. About $25.

2005 Eaglepoint Ranch Petite Sirah

This is my third or fourth bottle of this particular wine. I figured it would be nice with grilled Italian sausage and ratatouille. As expected, the 2005 Eaglepoint Ranch Petite Sirah, Mendocino County has a saturated color and tons of sediment. The nose and palate are quite similar; both showing copious amounts of rustic, briery blackberry fruit and dusty tannins. I suppose the tannins and acidity will preserve this wine for a good decade or so, but I prefer to drink it now while it still has all of that deep black fruit.

I usually drink this wine from the Riedel Shiraz glass; the glass Riedel recommends for new world renditions of Rhone grapes. But tonight I grabbed a Riedel Pinot Noir glass instead. This is the glass they recommend for old world Rhone wines. For some reason, the Pinot glass seems to bring out the Bourbon character of the American oak the wine was aged in. I don't get any of that from the Shiraz glass. That being said, I think the Bourbon aromas (something I generally despise) adds a little something extra to this oh-so-rustic wine.

Sadly, there is no more of this to be had as winemaker Casey Hartlip has ceased wine production and now sells off all of his grapes to other wineries. Perhaps the delicious fruit from this wine will someday end up in a Petite Sirah from the likes of JC Cellars, Sean Thackery or Girard.

2008 Cline Mourvedre

The teachers were gracious enough to leave us just enough pork for dinner. So I wanted to open something pretty bold and fruity to go with the smoky meat. I had completely forgotten that I had bought this a few weeks ago, so I was pleasantly surprised to find the 2008 Cline Ancient Vines Mourvedre, Contra Costa County hiding in the cellar. I've seen darker Mourvedres, but at this price point, I'm not a complainer. All of the beautiful, classic Mourvedre aromas of plum, chocolate and leather with a solid whiff of alcohol (14.5%). Sweet-tart plum on the palate with surprisingly assertive acidity and tannins. Finishes with a distinct note of hickory smoke. To its credit, the wine shows no trace of dill or Bourbon from the heavy toast 100% American oak (25% new). I would definitely buy this again. Fairly priced at just under $15.

BBQ and tuna tartare

My wife volunteered to coordinate lunch for our daughters' elementary school teachers tomorrow and we decided that smoked pork shoulder would be pretty easy for 50 people. I generally dig Costco, but one of my few complaints about the store is the fact that they sell their pork shoulders with the bone removed. You lose a lot of flavor that way; not to mention you have to truss the damn things so they'll keep a uniform shape on the grill/smoker. Anyway.....I started off by rubbing down about 25 pounds of boneless pork shoulder with yellow mustard and a hodgepodge of seasonings.



I'm not one of those blowhards who has a "secret rub." At this point, my jar of generic BBQ spice is probably a combination of 5-6 different commercial rubs. Whenever the jar gets low, I grab something off a grocery store shelf or whatever looks good at Penzey's and top up my old mason jar. Good old yellow mustard is common to those familiar with Carolina/Southeastern BBQ. It doesn't impart any mustard flavor, but it helps the spice rub adhere and creates a nice bark.



I've never attempted to smoke this much pork at once and I had doubts as to whether my 22.5" Weber Kettle would hold all that meat, but it all just barely fit. I lined up the meat in the middle and kept the charcoal and apple wood on the sides. Indirect heat is what it's all about. Every hour or so, it's necessary to add a handful of briquettes and a little more soaked apple chunks. Here it is after a couple of hours:



BBQ purists my recoil in horror at my technique, but I've always had amazing results with it. After 3 hours or so on the smoke, I take the pork off, seal it up tight in foil and finish it in a low oven. It usually takes another 3-4 hours until it hits that magic 190 degree internal temperature where it shreds or "pulls" effortlessly with two forks. My reasoning behind this is three-fold:

1) A piece of meat will only absorb a finite amount of smoke. After the smoke ring forms, it's a simple matter of slowly bringing the internal temperature up to 190 degrees.

2) It's much easier to finish it in an oven where you don't have to monitor airflow or temperature.

3) It is literally impossible to dry the meat out this way. I've had very good success smoking the meat start-finish on the grill, but I've also had rare instances of drying the meat out. I've never had dry meat using the oven technique.

Here's the more-or-less finished product. I plunged a fork into the shoulder on the left. The pictures don't really do it justice, but you can make out the pink "smoke ring" and notice the texture:



I just wish I could have everyone over to taste it! It's quite delicious, if I must say so myself. Hopefully, the teachers will leave enough for us to have a couple of sandwiches for dinner tomorrow night. Wine recommendation would be a Syrah, Grenache or Zinfandel from Paso Robles. Sorry, but I'm not looking for acidic old world wines with their herbs and earth when BBQ is on my plate. I want that lusty black fruit and spice that you can only get from California's Central Coast!

Enough about the teachers' meal. After I got the pork on the grill, I turned my attention to making some tuna tartare for us for tonight's dinner. I know tuna tartare is kind of "5 years ago" with regards to the restaurant scene, but I still really enjoy it. It's so flavorful and delicious, I sometimes ask myself why I ever bother cooking tuna any more.

My tuna tartare recipe is pretty simple. I don't ever measure anything; preferring instead to taste as I go and make adjustments as necessary. But the basic list of ingredients looks something like this:

2-3 tuna steaks cut into 1/4" dice
zest of one orange
2-3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
2-3 tablespoons minced red onion
1-2 cloves garlic, grated
Sambal Oelek (Vietnamese chili-garlic paste), to taste
mushroom-infused soy sauce, to taste



Just carefully mix everything until it's thoroughly combined. Don't get too aggressive or the tuna will become mushy. And it's best to work with really cold (even semi-frozen) tuna. I like to allow the tartare to sit in the refrigerator for an hour or so as it lets the flavors combine. Serve with crackers, pita chips or just dig in with a spoon!

You want a wine recommendation? I think Champagne is wonderful with tuna tartare. I also like a fragrant Pinot Gris or Riesling with it. But if it's my choice, I'm grabbing a dry rose like tonight's 2009 Chateau Routas Rouviere, Coteaux Varois en Provence. The wine's bright red berry aromas and flavors and wonderful citrus acidity is the perfect marriage with the tuna.

2006 Antigal Aduentus Mediterraneo

You ever have one of those meals when everything was working? The food is perfectly flavored and perfectly cooked. The wine is firing on all cylinders. And best yet, the wine and food are working in harmony to make one another better. I've been blessed to have more than my fair share of those meals. But unfortunately, tonight wasn't one of those. The steaks were fatty (even for rib eye), I scorched the leftover braised Brussel sprouts I was attempting to re-heat and the wine just wasn't working for me.

I would expect a young Argentinian blend of Malbec, Syrah and Tempranillo to be bursting with bright fruit and spice, but I fear the muted flavors and aromas of this bottle were caused by a mild case of cork taint. This particular bottle of 2006 Antigal Aduentus Mediterraneo, Mendoza shows a nice, dark garnet color. There's a healthy dose of black pepper and blackberry syrup in the nose, but it's hiding behind a wall of musty, dank aromas. Nice sweet/tart blackberry flavors on the palate and nice balance of acidity and dusty tannins. But overall, the experience was really tempered by the tainted cork. This one will have to be revisited.

2005 Girard Zinfandel

I really try to drink Zinfandels as young as possible. I'm really not interested in them once they shed their briary fruit and pepper. So it was with great trepidation that I approached the 2005 Girard Old Vine Zinfandel, Napa Valley. The color has definitely faded into a muted garnet. While there is still a trace of rustic berry and spice on the nose, a lot of the fruit seems to have faded; only to be replaced with oak. Although the wine was aged predominately in French oak, there's a Bourbon streak that suggest the American oak has taken over. The longer it sits in the glass, the more of a burnt rubber aroma develops. Still has grippy tannins and acidity. I wish I had tried this wine 2-3 years ago as I don't think time has been very kind to it.

2008 Pulenta Pinot Gris

For dinner tonight, I rubbed some salmon filets down with aleppo pepper, dried orange peel, dried orange peel and kosher salt and grill-smoked them over charcoal and alder wood. Needing something to meld with the citrus rub, I grabbed a bottle of 2008 Pulenta XIV Pinot Gris, Mendoza from the refrigerator. Suffice to say, it did not disappoint. Pale golden color with green highlights, the nose is a beautiful combination of orange peel, sweet Meyer lemon and rainwater. It's wonderfully dry on the palate with citrus and mineral flavors and a long earthy finish.

Pinot Gris, whether from Alsace, Argentina, California or Oregon is my go-to wine when I feel like having a white with salmon. For $15, you could do much, much worse than the Pulenta XIV.

2006 Palmina Barbera

When rotisserie chicken is on the menu, I usually reach for a Pinot Noir. But tonight I decided to shake it up a bit with a domestic Barbera. The 2006 Palmina Barbera, Santa Barbara County has a pretty garnet color and a rustic nose of sweet/tart raspberry, herbs de Provence, a hint of licorice and a touch of hickory wood. Sweet/tart raspberry and hickory follow through on the palate with assertive orange pith/citrus acidity; a trademark of the Barbera grape. No tannins to speak of. Enjoy now with something acidic (tomato sauce) or fatty to balance the acid as it's a bit tough to enjoy on its own. About $23

I really appreciate this winery for making traditionally Italian varietals with a California flair, while staying true to the grapes' roots. A lot of wineries in California take Italian Grapes like Barbera or Sangiovese and treat them like Cabernet or Merlot by over-extracting the fruit and aging the wine in 200% new oak. But Palmina tends to treat its Barbera, Dolcetto, Tocai, etc. with respect; allowing the wines to retain a lot of their natural acidity and character; making them very food-friendly. All the while keeping their prices very reasonable.

2008 Manifesto Cabernet Sauvignon

Tried the 2008 Manifesto Cabernet Sauvignon, North Coast tonight and I can't say that I'm very impressed. The nose seems green and unripe with sickly sweet cherry notes and some odd wintergreen aromas. The palate comes across as being quite manipulated with sweet/tart fruit and unbalanced acidity. No tannins or finish of note. Didn't do any favors for our pasta dinner.

2009 Big Fire Pinot Gris

Really enjoyed a bottle of 2009 R. Stuart Big Fire Pinot Gris, Oregon this afternoon while cooking and coping with the UGA loss to Arkansas. Pale golden color with noticeable copper highlights. Really pretty notes of ripe peaches, white grapes and rain water. Nice mineral notes and firm acidity on the palate. Should be nice with smoked salmon or light seafood/poultry fare.

Alpha Box and Dice

I had the privilege of tasting the eclectic wines of Alpha Box and Dice with winemaker Justin Lane last night. Undeniably one of the most promising young winemakers in Australia, Lane is experimenting with a lot of varietals and blends very uncommon down under - grapes like Durif (Petite Sirah), Sangiovese, Dolcetto, Nebbiolo and Tannat. Also of note is the use of French oak as well as American oak from an unlikely source; Minnesota.

The first wine of the night immediately signaled to me that I was in for a special evening. The 2008 Alpha Box and Dice Dead Winemaker's Society, Adelaide Hills is a varietal Dolcetto that shows a bright ruby color and reveals layers of red licorice, hickory smoke, mint and sweet/tart cherry on the nose. Cherry and cranberry fruit dominate the palate punctuated with moderate tannins and high acidity. Should be an amazing wine with food. $24

Next up was a most interesting blend of three varietals known for their tannins. The 2006 Alpha Box and Dice F is for Fog, McLaren Vale is a blend of 80% Nebbiolo, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Tannat. Perhaps the most captivating nose of the evening with strawberry/raspberry fruit and Nebbiolo's trademark tar and roses. Slight oxidation adds a level of interest as does the citrus/Bourbon flavor on the palate. And yes, the tannins are there in full force. $30

I suppose it was inevitable that there was one I didn't particularly care for and that being the case, the 2006 Alpha Box and Dice Blood of Jupiter, McLaren Vale would be the one. I don't have the winemaker's technical notes for this Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon blend, but the strong Bourbon/dill nose suggests to me that this wine was probably aged in the aforementioned Minnesota oak. Eventually reveals some floral notes as well as hints of licorice and rosemary/herb. But the nose is a bit hard to get past. $30

The 2008 Alpha Box and Dice Apostle, South Australia is a blend of Shiraz and Durif that immediately brought to mind the great wines of the Northern Rhone. Aged in 20% new French oak, the nose is a complex stew of smoke, toast, cured meat and white pepper. It is very smooth on the palate with notes of vanilla, sweet herbs (thyme, herbs de Provence) and more white pepper. Worth every penny of $40.

Lane was kind enough to bring with him two wines which have not been released in this country yet. These wines are supposed to be available here in November and I‘m very excited about both of them.

The 2008 Alpha Box and Dice Tarot, McLaren Vale is perhaps the greatest wine I have ever tasted that is slotted to retail in the $10-12 range. I’m serious when I say back up the truck and buy every bottle you see of this stuff. The laser beam of sweet raspberry and vanilla/cheesecake is the purest expression of varietal Grenache I have ever had. Simply stunning and a ridiculous value. Lane told me he was recently offered a contract on the fruit from this vineyard; fruit that used to go into a blend made by an undisclosed “high end” winery. I told him he could get $30 for this and he agreed, but sheepishly told me he would feel guilty doing so. You have to appreciate that level of honesty and integrity.

Similar in style, yet a level deeper than the Grenache is the 2009 Alpha Box and Dice Enigma, McLaren Vale. The unlikely combination of Barbera and Cabernet Sauvignon team up to provide a nose of sweet red fruit that goes back and forth between cherry and red raspberry. The palate is thick with smoke and earthy raspberry favors. The considerable acid and tannin lead me to think this will be very food-friendly. No price was mentioned for this one, but I suspect it will retail in the $25 range.



In addition to his duties at Alpha Box and Dice, Lane also spends one day a week doing consulting work for Killibinbin. These wines hail from one of Australia’s cooler climates and show great restraint and offer very good value in the mid-$20 range. I am not sure how much is currently available here.

2006 Killibinbin Blend Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon, Langhorne Creek - Very rustic and dusty with hints of Asian spices, pepper, licorice, floral and berries. Aged in French and American oak with the American oak dominating at this stage.

2007 Killibinbin Shiraz, Langhorne Creek - Pure red fruit nose that eventually shows notes of cured meat and restrained oak. Quite thick on the palate with a long, dusty finish.

2007 Killibinbin Cabernet Sauvignon, Langhorne Creek - Classic cool climate aromas of bell pepper, black olive and monster eucalyptus. Big tannins on the palate with flavors of black olive and sweet berries. My favorite of the Killibinbin selections.

I’ve been fortunate to have attended a number of really nice wine tastings since coming on board (about a year ago) with Off the Vine Design and this one is one of the 2 or 3 true stand-outs. I really loved these wines and admire the job Justin Lane is doing with some rather obscure varietals, fresh blends and a unique oak management program. I look forward to following this wine for a long time to come....

2007 Ajello Nero d'Avola

Drank the 2007 Ajello Nero d'Avola, Sicily tonight with grilled lamb (shoulder) skewers and a green salad made with baby romaine and arugula from the garden. Opens with a spicy, tart cherry nose that gets sweeter the longer it sits in the glass. Really blossoms into something nice after half an hour or so. The finish is longer than it should be at this price point and oscillates between dusty tannins and a camphor-like flavor. Nice value; especially if Mediterranean fare is on the menu tonight.

Extra Virgin

The wife and I don't get out to dinner often and we get to downtown Kansas City even less frequently. So when we had babysitters (my parents) a reason to get downtown (an after-work function for my wife) we couldn't pass up the opportunity to try one of Kansas City's most talked-about restaurants.

Online magazine The Pitch awarded Extra Virgin the title of best new restaurant in Kansas City for 2009. And chef Michael Smith is a semi-finalist for 2010's "Outstanding Chef" award by the James Beard Foundation.

Tuesday night found the restaurant pretty sparsely populated with 4-5 outside tables occupied as well as a few patrons at the bar. We took an indoor window seat between the bar and the patio. (I've never been a fan of dining al fresco.) Our waiter, Ben, was attentive without being intrusive or overbearing and possessed great knowledge of the menu and wine selection. Ben told us there were 60-odd choices on the menu and he'd let us know if we happened to pick one of the 3 or 4 that he didn't think were up to snuff.

My wife went with three tapas. An outstanding piece pork belly that was seared crispy on the outside and soft as butter on the inside. The chickpea fries garnishing the pork belly were perhaps the hit of the evening. Her empanadas stuffed with Serrano ham and mozzarella cheese were equally stunning. The beet salad with an ancho chile vinaigrette and micro-greens was earthy and tasty.

I let Ben talk me out of chicken thighs stuffed with figs and int an order of sauteed oyster mushrooms. The mushrooms were cooked well, yet slightly bland. I think they would have been better utilized as a garnish for a meat dish. I also ordered a some fantastic ground lamb/mint skewers and a bowl of fried duck gizzards with a very spicy (reminded me of Sriracha) sauce. While the mushrooms were a bit of a letdown, the meal overall was outstanding.

I considered a couple of domestic Syrahs from the reasonably-priced wine list, but in the end we went with the 2005 Two Hands The Bull and the Bear Shiraz Cabernet, Barossa Valley. I was initially a little bit hesitant to go with this as I'm leery of Australian wines that clobber me over the head with new American oak. But Ben told us that the sommelier was "pretty sure" it was aged in French oak. And correct he was. The wine was jet black with notes of tobacco, cassis, mint and toasty French oak. It was particularly good with the empanadas and lamb skewers. Serving wine at cellar temperature from Riedel stemware was a nice touch as well. The wine was regularly priced at $80, but it was marked down to $60 last night.

I would highly recommend this restaurant to anyone looking for excellent good food, a well-trained waitstaff and a restaurant that takes its wine program seriously.

2008 Estimulo Cabernet Sauvignon

According to the back label, estimulo is the Spanish word for stimulus or something that arouses ones interest, enthusiasm or excitement. After having most of a bottle of 2008 Estimulo Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza over dinner, I have to say that I agree with the wine's name. Is this a great wine? No. Not even close. But for $10, it seriously over-delivers in terms of body and flavor. Pretty blackberry and boysenberry flavors and enough of that green peppercorn/spice component that lets you know it's from Argentina. Quite nice with grilled chicken thighs with charmoula; a zesty Middle Eastern sauce.






Charmoula Sauce

1 tablespoon toasted cumin seeds, ground
1 1/2 cups Italian parsley
1/2 cup cilantro
2 large cloves garlic
1 tablespoon smoked paprika
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
6 tablespoons EVOO
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

Place all ingredients in food processor and blend into coarse paste. You may want to add more olive oil to achieve desired consistency.

Labor Day Weekend Wines

Well, I'm finally getting around to putting some stuff up about the wines we enjoyed over Labor Day weekend with some good friends who came over for the night.

My wife and I opened a 2009 Cline Pinot Gris, Sonoma Coast while we were waiting for our friends to arrive. What a delicious wine this is. Love the old school color with the slightly brassy hue. Although this wine is done 100% in stainless steel, it has a certain leesy richness that plays well with the citrus fruit and acidity. Great bargain at $10 or so.

One of the whites our friends brought was the 2008 Jean Reverdy La Reinie Blanch, Sancerre. Not quite as intense as I thought it would be, but it still showed some nice wet stone/mineral flavors and a hint of bell pepper.

The next thing out of our friends' case was the NV Riondo Prosecco, Veneto. I really dig this stuff. Slightly effervescent with a hint of sweetness and some delicious apple and pear flavors. A great way to satisfy a craving for bubbles without dropping $50 on a bottle of Champagne.

The 2007 Voss Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley was everything I remembered '96-'97-'98 vintages of this bottle being when I drank a good bit of it a decade ago. This is Sauvignon Blanc the way I like it best - juicy with sweet grapefruit and peach fruit.

Dinner was a standing rib roast that I rotisseried over charcoal and hickory chunks. Simple and delicious, it was a nice piece of meat to accompany a number of red wines.

A wine with which I was not familiar (but will purchase in the future) was the 2005 Kuleto Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley. Tons of black olive and dark, rustic fruits in this bottle with modest tannins that suggest drinking over the next 10 years or so. Nice bottle for a very reasonable $35 or so.

The wine I was most looking forward to this evening was the 2007 Dominio de Pingus Psi, Ribera del Duero. Yes, I know it is only the third wine from this legendary producer, but I was still pretty excited about it. Unfortunately, it was a massive disappointment. I got nothing from this wine except for loads and loads of new American oak. The kind of cheap oak that makes your wine glass smell like a Bourbon on the rocks. The next morning, I noted that only about half of this wine had been consumed. Thinking it might have opened up with 12 hours of air, I tried it again and it was still just monolithic and unexciting. No fruit. No earth. No licorice. There's just no "there" there. A disappointing $35 expense.

Next we opened our friends' final bottle of 1996 Jones Family Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley. This is a wine that we bought back in the '96 and '97 vintages. This was the first wine I remember being really hyped and driven by internet discussion and my friend and I both fell for the hype. And boy am I glad we did! This was showing really well right now. Really pretty 15-year old California Cabernet flavors of cherry and cigar box. The tannins were well-balanced and I think this is about as good as it will get. I think we paid about $60/bottle back in the day but dropped off the mailing list when the '98 was offered at $75 or so. Oh, well. I'm glad I tried the first two vintages of this wine and I'm glad I've still got a bottle or two in the cellar.

On Sunday, my wife and I enjoyed the 2009 Gascon Malbec, Mendoza with some grilled double lamb chops. This wine is like slipping on an old pair of jeans - comfortable and familiar. I've been enjoying this wine for it's dark fruit and spice for the past 3-4 vintages. Great value at $10-12.

Having drained the Gascon, we needed one more bottle to wash down our lamb chops. So I reached for something I hoped would pair well with the spice rub and char. That wine was the 2005 Eaglepoint Ranch Petit Sirah, Mendocino County. This wine a really tannic, rustic beast and the perfect wine for the meal. I've tried pairing this with smoked pork shoulder and a few other meats, but I think this was the most successful pairing to date.