2008 Plungerhead Dry Creek Zinfandel

2008 Plungerhead Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley - Transparent ruby color. Laser beam of pure red cherry and raspberry fruit gradually opens up to reveal more bittersweet chocolate and vanilla aromas. The palate is beautifully balanced with raspberry, cracked black peppercorn and electrifying acidity. Reminds me of the structured, acidic 1997 Zinfandels maligned by the masses but loved so dearly by your's truly. Sweet raspberry notes carry on forever on the moderately tannic finish. I never noticed the stated 14.9% alcohol. A truly inspired pairing with a Cajun-stuffed pork tenderloin and quite a nice value at under $20. If you're left wanting by Plungerhead's pedestrian Lodi Zinfandel, give this one a try.

A truly bewildering, yet ultimately successful, blend of Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel, with small amounts of Paso Robles Zinfandel, some 2006 Napa Cab/Merlot blend and a dash of Paso Robles Malbec.

2007 Neal Family Cabernet Sauvignon

The 2007 Neal Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley shows a near-black color in the glass. Aromas found in the nose include slightly under-ripe blackberry, faint traces of Bourbon, dry cocoa, and a solid whiff of alcohol. Effortlessly transitions to tart blackberry, licorice and dry cocoa on the oaky palate. Astonishing depth. Very dry and dusty. Quite tannic. Floral notes linger in the empty glass. Nice effort that falls just a bit short due to the unripe fruit notes and an overall lack of integration. Right now I think this blend of organically-grown Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from the esteemed AVAs of Howell Mountain, Atlas Peak, Mt. Veeder and Rutherford is pretty iffy for $45, but it might well come together with some time in the cellar.

One of the cool things about internet message boards and blogging is the opportunity to meet a lot of interesting, like-minded people. I've been fortunate to have established a number of friendships with people initially met on-line. And I have even more "cyber friendships" with people I've been exchanging tasting notes with; some for 15 years or more. One of my more recent acquaintances is blogger Dennis Tsiorbas, better known as the New Hampshire Wine Man. As you can imagine, the selection available in Kansas is often times quite a bit different from what's available in New Hampshire. But when I saw Dennis' review of a wine that we had in stock at the retailer I work for, I figured it was a good opportunity to calibrate our palates by comparing notes from the same wine.

I made a point to avoid Dennis' note for a few days before trying this just so I wouldn't be influenced one way or another. (I just remembered he thought quite a bit of it and rated it a 93.) Overall, I think our notes are pretty consistent; the major difference being the perceived level of ripeness of the blackberry fruit.

Dinner was roasted chicken with a red wine/porcini pan sauce.

Candor Merlot "Lot 3"

I don't drink a whole hell of a lot of Merlot because I find most of it to be rather hollow and sad. But the nonvintage Candor Lot 3 Merlot, Central Coast is an exception to the rule. This wine made by the Hope Family umbrella of wines (Liberty School, Austin Hope, Treana and Troublemaker being their other brands) is an intriguing blend of three different vintages of Merlot from vineyards sourced throughout the Central Coast. Deep garnet color. Beautiful aromatics of milk chocolate, cherry, vanilla and licorice. Quite full-bodied with chewy tannins and dry mocha and cherry flavors. Finishes long with dry, pleasant bay leaf, cocoa and cassia notes. Easily the most memorable Merlot I've had in a long time. 14.5% alcohol is barely noticeable. About $19.


Dinner was a charcoal-grilled tri-tip I rubbed down with the dry rub I usually reserve for ribs and pork shoulder. The caramelized brown sugar played really well with the wine's sweet fruit flavors.

Three legendary Rhones

My best friend in the world and his wife showed up for dinner last Saturday night and we sipped and slurped our way through three high profile Chateauneuf-du-Papes from great vintages and choked down some really disappointing lamb.

Sadly, I really dropped the ball on the lamb. I bought a boned leg of New Zealand lamb, removed the net and stuffed it with black pepper, fresh rosemary and chopped garlic. Then I put the net back on and smoked it for an hour or so over apple and cherry wood before slamming it in a low oven for a few hours. About an hour before our guests were due I started to panic and tried to braise some tenderness into the meat by way of a bath of simmering red wine and chicken stock; only achieving partial success. My wife and guests were gracious, but I could sense the disappointment in the dry, grainy meat.

Evaluating these wines was something of a roller coaster. I decanted each of them off of their sediment around 3 p.m. or so and immediately poured them back into their rinsed bottles where they sat until dinner time.

My notes in order of least favorite to most favorite:

1995 Chateau de Beaucastel, AOC Chateauneuf-du-Pape - Mourvedre-dominated blend manifests itself with a nose of worn saddle leather and the sweetest maraschino cherry. Color is definitely fading; showing an advanced brown color. Long, cherry-like finish. Sherried notes and resolved tannins lead me to believe this wine may be a touch over the hill - at least for my tastes.


1998 Chateau de Beaucastel, AOC Chateauneuf-du-Pape - Asian-influenced notes of soy and mushroom. Color shows the same advanced brown tones as the 1995. Very smooth, polished tannins with a considerable hint of menthol on the nose and palate.

1995 Chateau de la Gardine Cuvee des Generations "Gaston Philippe", AOC Chateauneuf-du-Pape - Easily my favorite wine of the evening and the favorite of our guests as well. Deepest color of the three wines. A bit cloudy, but that's probably my fault due my decanting technique. Deep black fruits and a Barolo-like nose of rose, tar and fennel. Touch of meat/sausage kicks in on the palate. Huge fruit and sandpaper-like tannins suggest this wine may benefit from additional aging. Finishes with a trace of Bourbon.

I was a bit surprised and disappointed by how the Beaucastels had faded. I purchased the 1998 at retail on release and stored it in proper conditions ever since. My friend bought the 1995 at the winery and kept it in a 57 degree refrigerated wine cabinet since then. So storage was not an issue. Regardless, the Beaucastels were absolutely smoked by the Gardine "Generations."

And as bad as the lamb was on Saturday night, an additional hour of braising turned the leftovers into something absolutely marvelous for Sunday night's smorgasbord dinner. Guess my timing was just a bit off. I'll do better next time, A......

2008 Seghesio Barbera

2008 Seghesio Barbera, Alexander Valley - Color shows no sign of age. Beautiful aromatics of raspberry, vanilla, licorice and maybe even something a little darker in there like tar. Retains beautiful licorice and raspberry fruit on the palate, but there's a good bit of alcohol and acid in there, too. Not picking up much, if any, oak on this one even though I know it's been aged in barrels. I'd say at this point the oak is well integrated. The alcohol, on the other hand, is quite noticeable. 15.3% is the stated amount on the label and I believe every bit of it. Picks up some dark, dry baker's chocolate on the long, vanilla/sweet raspberry finish. Purchased for the ridiculously low price of $8.77 ($9.74 less a 10% case discount) on close-out at a St. Louis grocery store last Christmas. Normal retail is about $20.

For dinner I whipped up a couple of home made pizzas:

A "meat lover's" with pepperoni, andouille sausage and sliced homemade meatballs

BBQ pizza with smoked pork shoulder, BBQ sauce, shaved red onion and cilantro

Lox with creme fraiche and scallion (no, I didn't try the wine with this one!)

The wine was fantastic with the meat pizza and also quite nice with the smoked pork. Might have to open one of my remaining stash of these wines next time I have BBQ.

2006 Castello di Bossi Chianti Classico

The 2006 Castello di Bossi Chianti Classico is a reasonably-priced 100% Sangiovese with a light, brick red color and a browing rim. Nose reveals classic aromas of dust, tart cherry, light licorice and leafy green tobacco. The medium-bodied palate is consistent with its earthy tart cherry and licorice notes. Great acidity. Tannins clamp down on the supremely long, tart cherry finish. Really in its element with a tomato sauce and home made venison and pork meatballs over pasta. Fair value at $20.

2010 Finca el Origen Reserva Torrontes

I have a couple of go-to food and wine pairings. One of my favorites is a roasted chicken with a bottle of Pinot Noir. Another one I really like is seared duck breast with a green peppercorn sauce and a stout Chateauneuf-du-Pape. One that I tapped tonight was fish tacos with Torrontes. Nothing fancy here. Fried basa filets on tortillas dressed with a bit of cheese, angel hair cabbage, shredded cilantro and a simple chipotle crema. Light. Fresh. Delicious. Flavors that I could use to describe the tacos or the 2010 Finca el Origen Reserva Torrontes, Valle de Cafayate.

Pale, light color that one would expect from a Torrontes. Aromas of intense rose petal, fresh peach, tangerine and a hint of petrol leap from the glass. Crisp and refreshing on the palate, yet a light, mineral oil-type viscosity. Nice, long, dry, floral finish with a refreshing note of bitter orange pith. Might be one of the more floral Torrontes I've ever had and just a spectacular pairing with dinner. About 410