Top 10 Wines of 2011

Just for fun I thought I'd put together a list of my favorite wines from the past 12 months of gustatory indulgence. I didn't take vintage into account as this isn't a list of my favorite wines released in 2011. It's just anything that I really enjoyed over the past calendar year. I decided to immediately disqualify wines that I had inconsistent results with and prices are all over the map; ranging from $10 to about $50. It was tough cutting the list from 125 or so down to 10, but here's my best attempt, in alphabetical order, with a link to my original note:

2008 Argiolas Korem, IGT Isola dei Nuraghi - Bovale Sardo? What is that? A kind of beef? A famous opera singer? Nope It's a grape that pretty much only grows on the island of Sardinia. And if this one doesn't make you a believer in Bovale Sardo then maybe you should just stick to Sangiovese and Barbera.

2008 Bennett Lane Turn 4 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley - I tried a lot of California Cabernets last year (no surprise there, huh?) and this was my favorite. Decadent fruit, licorice, judicious oak and good tannins for a very easy-to-swallow $25. What's not to like?

2006 Casar de Burbia, D.O. Bierzo - Like Bovale Sardo, this is a grape that I only discovered recently. Just a beautiful combination of rustic fruit, licorice and oak. If they grew Zinfandel in Spain, this is what it would taste like. And a great pairing with paella!

2010 Charles & Charles rose, Columbia Valley - Summertime to me is rose time. And of all the ones I enjoyed last year, this 100% Syrah version really stood out. Bold and dry - this isn't your aunt's White Zinfandel. A bit too chilly outside now to be drinking this wine, but as soon as it warms up again, I'll be buying again. Highly recommended with tuna tartare.

2005/7 Cuvelier los Andes Grand Vin, Mendoza - The best wine(s) I've ever had from Argentina. I was fortunate to have two vintages of this last year and since I couldn't decide which one I liked better, I just both on the list. Mostly Malbec with smaller amounts of Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah and Petit Verdot. Grill a slab of beef and allow this wine's Bordeaux roots to shine.

2008/9 Dunning Ridge Top Zinfandel, Paso Robles - Another one where I had multiple vintages and just couldn't pick one. I've written a lot about Dunning's wines and their picturesque B&B in Paso Robles and I'll continue to write about them. Not sure what kind of distribution this small, family-owned winery has outside of California, but I encourage everyone to sign up for their wine club. Their Cabernets and Syrahs are also outstanding.

2009 Sean Minor Red Wine, Napa Valley - This highly-anticipated Petit Verdot-heavy blend finally hit Kansas City last fall and I couldn't wait to get my hands on a bottle. If I had to pick one California label synonymous with "value" these days it would be Sean Minor. Even this, his most expensive wine, retails for under $20. And his $15 Pinot Noirs, Cabernets and Chardonnays are a steal, too. Buy this wine and anything else that says "Sean Minor" on the label.

2007 Kent Rasmussen Esoterica Chavez-Leeds Vineyard Petit Sirah, Rutherford - No jammy, tooty-fruity nonsense in this one. What we have here is a benchmark for structured, serious, rustic Petit Sirah that, sadly, seems to be harder and harder to find these days. Wonderful acidity and that trademark "Rutherford dust," too.

2010 Tablas Creek Patelin Blanc, Paso Robles - Another one that took a while to reach Kansas City, but it was worth the wait. I cant imagine a better white wine to pair with Mediterranean cuisine than this floral, honeyed white Rhone-style blend. Can't wait for the Patelin red that is supposed to reach Kansas early in 2012.

2007 Terlan Pinot Bianco, Alto Adige - One of the first wines I drank in 2011 and still one of the best. Oh, the tropical fruit and wet stone profile that this one offers! Artichokes are notoriously difficult to pair with wine, but this one pulled it off without a hitch.

Venison and two wines that don't suck.....

2005 Cuvaison ATS Selection Two Estates, Napa Valley - I'm not sure of the exact blend of this wine, but the winery website says the current vintage (2008) is 64% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Malbec sourced from vineyards on Mt. Veeder and in Carneros. If this is the approximate blend/source of the 2005, then I can say this is very full-bodied for a Merlot blend. Decadent nose of Dark cherries, milk chocolate, cedar, vanilla and just a hint of game. Delicious cherry/vanilla flavors on the palate with still considerable tannins and a long, chocolaty finish.My father-in-law has been a member of Cuvaison's wine club for the better part of two decades now and I've been lucky to have tasted most of the the top-of-the-line ATS Selection Cabs and Chards and they continue to impress. About $50



2004 Fattoria La Lecciaia Brunello di Montalcino - Beautiful reddish-brown color that one expects from a top notch Brunello. The nose here is classic Tuscan with the bright raspberry fruit, fennel bulb, rust and hints of cedar and dark earth - just a pleasure to smell from a big ol' Riedel glass! Rich and rustic on the palate with sweet cherries, licorice and monstrous, dusty tannins. Nice balance here of fruit, tannins and acid suggest this wine could easily go another decade (or longer) in the cellar. $40

For dinner, I cut one of our venison backstraps (a country term for loin) into 2" steaks and pan-seared them in olive oil and butter for about 2 minutes on each side. I removed the steaks from the pan and set them aside to rest. In the pan, I built a sauce with chopped shallots, Maker's Mark Bourbon, veal stock and blackberry jam. After reducing and straining the sauce I added some fresh, lightly crushed blackberries. Sides were wild rice with cranberries and pecans and haricot vert. I'm not normally one to toot my own horn, but the meal was superb. I think the fruitiness of the Cuvaison ended up making it the better wine pairing as the sauce seemed to accentuate the Brunello's acidity.

Austin Hope Troublemaker

Had the non-vintage Austin Hope Troublemaker (Blend 2), Paso Robles tonight with a devilishly good grilled flank steak with charmoula sauce. A blend of 73% Syrah, 12% Grenache, 8% Petite Sirah and 7% Mourvedre, the Troublemaker shows a vibrant cranberry color in the glass. Primal, tart cherry and raspberry aromas gradually give way to licorice notes. Quite acidic on the palate with well-defined raspberry, black pepper and leathery flavors. Moderately tannic with no trace of oak. Clipped finish. A bit tart and acidic to enjoy as a sipper, but the mouth-watering acidity leaves you begging for another sip after each bite of food. Nice, atypical, food-friendly Paso blend for under $20

2007 Alain Jaume "Les Valats" Cotes-du-Rhone

Opened the 2007 Alain Jaume Les Valats Rasteau, Cotes-du-Rhone Villages with tonight's bacon-wrapped/smoked pheasant breast. This negociant wine from Domaine Grand Veneur is a dense and chewy blend of 90% Grenache and 10% Syrah that nicely evolves in the glass over the course of a meal. Initially shows a lot of funky earth, campfire and meaty aromas and flavors. As it opens up in the glass, it reveals layers of dry cocoa, sweet/tart raspberry and hickory wood. Tannins are moderate at best, but the orange peel-flavored acidity is off the charts. Long, dry woody finish. Could develop into something nice with a couple of years in the cellar.

The pheasant was, in a word, superb. Might be the best pheasant I've ever grilled. I sprinkled each breast with kosher salt, black pepper and herbs de Provence before wrapping in a slice of apple wood smoked bacon. I then grilled the breasts (indirect heat) over charcoal augmented with apple wood chips. Sides were roasted sweet potatoes with butter and rosemary and a mixed green salad with an orange-Sherry vinaigrette.

2007 Hess Allomi Vyd. Cabernet

My small clutch of 2007 Hess Allomi Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley has been hit or miss; mostly miss. I drank my last bottle tonight and thankfully the relationship ended on something of a happy note. Consider it a break-up when both parties agree to part ways. Nothing to complain about with the color. Nose seems somewhat woody and stemmy, but there's plenty of sweet cherry fruit in there, too. The palate starts off nice and smooth, but turns tart and alcoholic on the finish. tannins are fierce, but I fear there isn't enough fruit for this wine to age very well. Finishes with lots of wood and dry bay leaf characteristics. Nice enough with dinner, but just a bit too dry and tart for my preferences. About $25.

Dinner was a delicious venison stroganoff made with meat from a doe I shot last week on my property during deer season. I've heard horror stories about how dry and tough venison meat is, but this was buttery tender. I'm not sure exactly which cut I used as the processor just labelled it "venison roast" but it resembled a smaller version of a beef rump roast.

Some really belated Thanksgiving notes...

Yikes! I just saw these languishing in a note on my iPhone. Perhaps they will be of use to those of you who enjoy a traditional Thanksgiving dinner (turkey, dressing, cranberries, etc., etc.) at Christmas, too:

2010 Esperto Pinot Grigio, IGT Venezie - Pretty nose of wet stone and red apples. Rich and full-bodied with a rocky, mineral-driven palate. Might be a bit one dimensional with the rocky stuff, but I kind of dig it. Really dry with good acidity.

2009 Garnet Pinot Noir, Monterrey - Distinctive for its unusual complexity for a Pinot Noir in this price range. Sweet cranberry and raspberry nose seamlessly moves into meaty/salami notes with a touch of sweet herb. Almost Rhone-like with the fruit profile, meat and spice notes. The fruit on the palate is a bit tart, but there's good acidity in there. A nice, food friendly style. $15

2009 Sean Minor Pinot Noir, Carneros - What more can I say about this wine? Still my favorite Pinot value with its effusive black cherry, vanilla and thyme notes. Medium bodied with nice tannins. Quite dry. A steal at $15

2009 Block Nine Caidens Vineyards Pinot Noir, California - Lightest color of the three Pinot Noirs. Dried bay leaf notes on the nose. Doesn't seem nearly as fruity as previous bottles. Dry cocoa and woody flavors on the palate. I need to try this again and see if this was just a bad bottle. A normally reliable $12

2010 Schug Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma Coast - This is another wine that seemed really atypical from previous enjoyable bottles. Very herbaceous compared to previous bottles with vegetal/tomato leaf and tart grapefruit aromas and flavors. Bright acidity, but a bit too New Zealand for my tastes. Where's the sweet California fruit and the floral Sauvignon Musque nose?

2008 Andrew Will Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley - This was a popular wine after dinner, but it isn't my cup of tea at all. Heavy American oak/coconut nose. Toasty, tart blackberry fruit on the palate eventually gives way to resurgent American oak. Dry cocoa finish. Monolithic. Seems quite formulaic to me. $15

2010 Tinto Negro Reserve Malbec

Had an interesting evening with the 2010 Tinto Negro Uco Valley Reserve Malbec, Mendoza tonight. Until tonight, I don't think I'd ever had an Uco Valley Malbec or any other Malbec described (according to the back label) as "cool climate." The color is as dark, if not darker than any other Malbec I've ever had. One of those wines so dark that it literally sucks the light out of the room. The nose is a melange of herbal cherry notes reminiscent of cherry cough syrup or Jagermeister. More cough syrup flavor on the palate accompanied by some odd carob and maple notes. No alcohol to note. Serious tannins. The wine is aged in French oak (10% new) for 9 months, but I don't detect any oak notes. About $20

Are those medicinal notes typical for cool climate Malbec? Not sure I really ejoyed this wine tonight with my BBQ turkey, baked beans and cole slaw, but it certainly was a unique learning experience.

Two from Spain

Tried a couple of Spanish wines on Saturday. The first was recommended to me by a customer who had special ordered a case and kindly let me buy a bottle. The Rioja is one of the wines we are featuring in our Wine of the Month club:

2010 Penelope Sanchez Garnacha/Syrah, D.O. Borja - Pretty magenta color. Heady, alcoholic, raspberry/mocha nose. Suffers a bit from that dry, herbal, "bay leaf" sensation on the palate. Nice $10 daily drinker, but nothing more. I'm a little confused by some of the critical praise for this one as I've had better Spanish Garnacha in this price range (Las Rocas, Menguante, Tres Picos)

2005 Marques de Caceras Reserva, Rioja - The anti-Rioja. Impenetrable color. Aged in 100% French oak that drifts towards smoke and vanilla rather than the normal aromas of pickle and Bourbon associated with Riojas aged in American hogsheads. Massive tannins. Leathery, blackberry palate with a subtle floral note. Should age quite well. A Rioja for those who prefer Cabernet Sauvignon to Pinot Noir. About $25.

2008 Dunning Private Reserve Syrah

We had the trip from hell on the way home from St. Louis today (90 minute standstill on I-70 do to a wreck, rained the entire time, restless kids, etc.) and didn't have a whole lot in the fridge/pantry to make for dinner once we got home. Quickly thawed out a couple of tuna steaks and added a beaten egg, some mayo, bread crumb, red onion and seasoning. Fried them in a little olive oil and turned them into some darn tasty tuna burgers. Topped them with a little mayo/chili-garlic sauce/lime juice. Needing something bold an assertive to accompany the tuna (and take the edge off the afternoon), I grabbed the first of my stash of 2008 Dunning Vineyards Private Reserve Syrah, Paso Robles.

I've had the 2005 and 2007 (numerous occasions) of this wine, but this is the first time I've had the 2008 since I tasted it from barrel in Paso about two years ago. So primal. So much potential. So delicious. The inkiest of black colors. The nose is still reminiscent of a barrel sample with grapey, yeasty, fermentation aromas with just a bit of coffee and French oak starting to peek through. Monstrous tannins on the palate are consistent with the previous vintage of this wine. Lots of dry cocoa, blackberry and black pepper on the palate, too. Wonderful acidity. Five years or so in the cellar and this should bloom into something beautiful. About $30

I'm currently sitting on four bottle of the '07 and one more '08, but I'm hoping to receive additional bottles of the '08 with the next shipment or two from Dunning.

2009 Morse Code Shiraz

The 2009 Henry's Drive Morse Code Shiraz, Padthway is, I suppose, all you can expect from a daily drinker from Down Under. Nothing to complain about with regards to the deep, lush color. A cup of the ubiquitous dark fruit (I used blackberry, feel free to substitute blueberry or black cherry if that's all you have), a tablespoon of spice, a scant teaspoon of cured meat and a pinch of citric acid and you've got the recipe for this one. To its credit, the wine sees no new oak and the tannins are negligible. Although the wine does not fall into the category of the syrupy, low acid/high alcohol Shiraz that Australia was so (in)famous for a decade ago, the fruit/acid balance here seems a bit, um, manipulated - kind of like sucking on a piece of sour candy. About $10

Perfectly decent with a jerk seasoned pork tenderloin grilled over my new favorite culinary discovery - coconut shell charcoal.

2005 Eaglepoint Ranch Petite Sirah

Do you ever have one of those dinners where everything comes together just right? The food is perfect, the wine is firing on all cylinders and the marriage of the food and wine is greater than the sum of its parts? Well, I got one of those tonight. Simply divine in every sense of the word. Dinner was some pheasant breast my wife's boss just shot in Iowa that I wrapped in bacon and smoked over cherry and apple wood. While the pheasant was smoking, I made a simple risotto that, when finished, I stirred in some diced beets (from our garden) that I had roasted last night. The flavors were as delicious as the risotto's color was shocking!

With dinner we enjoyed the last of our six bottles of 2005 Eaglepoint Ranch Winery Petite Sirah, Mendocino County. We've always enjoyed this wine, but tonight's bottle was by far its best showing. It had all the earthiness, chalkiness and dry cocoa flavors of the previous bottles, but the roasted meat and sweet blackberry seemed even more generous than I remember. The color is still amazingly youthful and the tannins are still fierce. But I love it at this stage and wouldn't dream of keeping it beyond the fruit's life. Once again, the 14.7% alcohol is well hidden and there is no trace of oak. Finishes with a really pretty note of dry cinnamon.

2008 Razor's Edge Shiraz/Grenache

Tried the 2008 Razor's Edge Shiraz/Grenache, McLaren Vale tonight with some awful take-out pizza. (But I won't hold that against the wine.) The color is a deep and dark as you would expect from a full throttle Aussie red. Lots of juicy raspberry and cranberry fruit in the nose as well as some distressing rubber/tar aromas. Although the wine is aged in 50% new American and 50% 2nd and 3rd fill French oak barrels, I don't get any oak on the nose or palate. Kudos to the winemaker for keeping the oak in check. Palate is a bit tart with the unripe raspberry and cranberry fruit. Starts off rather thick and syrupy, but after an hour or so the acidity starts to assert itself and lighten the wine. Moderate tannins. Finish is long and slightly bitter with tart fruit and hickory smoke. Overall, just seems to be lacking in richness. A slightly disappointing $14.

2006 Cartlidge & Browne Reserve Cabernet

Every once in a while you call upon a wine to lay down a sacrifice bunt but it overachieves with a 2-run homer. And tonight's 2006 Cartlidge & Browne Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley does just that. I bought this intending to drink it as one of those 5th or 6th bottles of the evening at a large family gathering. But for whatever reason, the wine was never opened and it found its way down into the cellar. Bummed that I didn't have any Malbec on hand for tonight's devastatingly delicious grilled flank steak with chimichurri I dejectedly grabbed the C&B just to have something red to go with dinner.

But I have to say, for $17 this baby really over-delivers! Beautiful color. Nose is warm and inviting with scents of dark cherry, vanilla, sweet pipe tobacco and cedar. medium-bodied with good acidity and only moderate tannins, this probably isn't built for the long haul. But it's very enjoyable in the here and now with its sweet cherry, vanilla and bitter chocolate flavors. Bitter chocolate flavors continue on throughout the nice, long finish.

For the last twenty years, I've always thought of Cartlidge & Browne as merely a player in the California "fighting varietal" arena as I've had countless innocuous bottles of their inexpensive California appellation Cabernet, Merlot, Chardonnay, etc. But I have to give them kudos for bringing something serious to the table with this wine.

2008 Seventy Five Wine Company "The Sum" Red Wine

Just a quick note on tonight's bottle of 2008 Seventy Five Wine Company The Sum Red Wine, California. This blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Petit Sirah and 10% Syrah continues to impress with its dark fruits, menthol, cocoa powder and peppery spice. Pleasantly oaky with a long, cocoa, bay leaf finish. Really nice value for about $20 and just dandy with BBQ chicken from the smoker.

2009 Sean Minor Red Wine

When I'm stuck in a rut of mediocre (and worse) wines, I tend to return to an old friend to get me out of the slump. So tonight I grabbed a bottle of 2009 Sean Minor Red Wine, Napa Valley to help me erase the memories of the wines I suffered through last week. Dinner this evening was homemade beef and pork meatballs with a yellow tomato sauce (from the garden, of course) over soft, cheesy polenta. And the wine pairing was fantastic. Obligatory deep color. nose of ripe blackberry, red licorice and sweet floral perfume. Medium-full body with notes of black fruits, cocoa, a hint of bay leaf, mineral and a long vanilla-chocolate finish. Overall, a seamless package with great length and balance. The iron/graphite component from the last time I had this seems to be missing, but trust me, there's still plenty in here to justify the purchase. This blend of Merlot, Petit Verdot, Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Syrah and Malbec is a ridiculous buy at under $20.

On a completely unrelated note, just how bad does my digital camera suck? My 8 megapixel Olympus simply doesn't do justice to my beautiful dinner. Guess I need to stick to just grabbing label shots off the internet....

2009 Paul Mas Picpoul de Pinet

What happened here? I've had the 2009 Paul Mas Estate Picpoul de Pinet, Coteaux de Languedoc a couple of times over the past few weeks, but it's always been in the midst of a large crowd or family dinner when taking notes just wasn't practical. Now that I get a chance to spend some quality time with a bottle it takes a decided turn for the worse. Whereas previous bottles have been light and lively with lovely floral/peach/apricot/mineral aromatics and flavors, this bottle seems dull and lifeless with odd earthy/truffle notes and no acidity to speak of. Comes across as much heavier than previous tastings as well. It's like someone took my spry New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and replaced it with a tired, old California Chardonnay. A perplexing $15.

I almost hesitate to make this post as I know this note isn't indicative of this wine's potential, but I'm recording it for posterity anyway. Based on how good this wine has been to me in the past, I'm recommending it despite tonight's unflattering review.

I was inspired to open this tonight (I thought it would have lots of pretty citrus notes) based on the rub I applied to a whole chicken before roasting. I took some fennel seeds, kosher salt and black pepper and put it in a spice grinder with some fresh orange zest. Then I stuffed it under the loosened skin and roasted at 400 degrees until done. The chicken was delicious. I wish the wine had been as good.

2009 Paul Mas Carignan

Had the 2009 Paul Mas Estate Carignan Vieilles Vignes, Pays d'Herault tonight. Usually reduced to the role of bit player in Rhone blends, this varietal Carignan shows quite a bit of character even if it isn't done in a style that I'm really on top of. The nose is very Old World with iodine, blood, cured meat and herbal overtones. Earthy, herbal palate with some coarse, hickory-like notes. Not much fruit to speak of on the nose or palate. No tannins to speak of. Decent acidity. Finishes with earthy, dry chocolate and ashen notes. If you like your Rhone wines with lots of funky, earthy flavors, this wine might be for you. About $15.

This was another one of those wines that was pretty difficult to enjoy on its own. But it really sang with tonight's rustic home made pizza with blue cheese crumbles and sliced green olives.

2009 Textbook "Fin de Journee" Cabernet

What is it with me picking tart, lean wines these days? On the heels of last night's Shug Pinot, I crack open the 2009 Textbook Fin de Journee Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley. What we have here is a Cabernet whose finest attribute is, unfortunately, the deep, rich color. The tart raspberry, herb and tobacco leaf nose give way to tart fruit and shrill acidity on the palate. The tannins are moderate and the oak is certainly not obtrusive. In fact, it takes a good long while before the smoky French oak reveals itself. Seems a bit more alcoholic than the stated 14.5%. I'm not one of these guys who demands melted asphalt and kirsch liqueur in his Cabs, but I do prefer mine with a little more body and concentration than this one offers. Might appeal to fans of more European-styled Cabs and Bordeaux blends, but for me it's an easy "pass" at $23.

2009 Schug Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast

The 2009 Schug Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast is a tight, lean style of Pinot Noir featuring scents of cherry and cranberry fruit and an exotic hint of Asian five spice powder. Tart and angular on the palate with bitter wood (think: campfire) and cranberry flavors. Only moderate tannins, but the acidity is off the charts. Stylistically, I prefer Schug's softer, sweeter Carneros Pinot Noir. About $17

Pretty rough as a sipping wine, but a teriyaki-marinated pork tenderloin really helped smooth out the sharp edges. Recommended, but with the caveat that this is a "food wine."

2009 Dunning Ridge Top Zinfandel

Some sage wine blogger once said "Happiness is receiving your semi-annual wine shipment from Dunning Vineyards." Okay, that guy was me. And I think I said it last year. But I meant every word of it. And I was thrilled to see that brown cardboard box show up late last week. Now I'm not a huge believer in concepts like "dumb phases" and "bottle shock" but I did want to give the wine a few days to settle down just in case there was any sediment that had been shaken up on the trip from Paso Robles to rural Kansas.


I managed to keep my hands off of the 2009 Dunning Vineyards Ridge Top Zinfandel, Paso Robles until tonight. Of the three vintages of this wine I have had so far, this one is probably my favorite. This is a massive wine that just smacks you in the face with waves of blackberry, sweet cherry, black pepper and ungodly licorice notes. The palate is full-bodied with huge fruit and tannins and a long, powdery, dry cocoa finish. The whole package is encapsulated in slick French oak. Although the fruit shows phenomenal extraction, there's enough tannin and acidity in here to keep the wine from being sweet or flabby. Yes, the stated alcohol is 15.2% and it tastes like it. You got a problem with that? I don't. Seems like the sheet included with the order said this wine is about $28. Worth every penny...and then some.

If there's one little hidden gem of a winery that you've never heard of but should be buying from, this is it.

Consumed with a bowl of home made Italian-style meatballs with home made tomato sauce (tomatoes and peppers from our garden) and spaghetti. The fruit and licorice notes from the wine were amazing with the fennel seed in the meatballs and the acidity of the wine was a perfect partner to the acidity of the tomato sauce.

2009 Chateau de Segries

I've had the 2009 Chateau de Segries Cotes-du-Rhone four or five times now over the past year and it has never failed to deliver the goods. Tonight's bottle shows all the warm, spicy raspberry fruit, black pepper and sweet herb of previous bottles and ups the ante with an earthy, carob-like finish. Simply charming with grilled chicken skewers and tabbouleh. $12

2007 Manos Negras Malbec

Tonight my wife and I quietly celebrated our 17th anniversary with college football on the television (Tennessee/Bama, USC/Notre Dame and a bit of Wisconsin/Michigan State) and carnitas. I made the carnitas by rubbing down a pork shoulder with kosher salt, ground cumin and ground chilies, searing it in Dutch oven and then simmering it in chicken stock and home made green tomato salsa for 5-6 hours. Delicious with a little cheese, chopped cilantro and hot sauce in a warm flour tortilla.

The wine I chose for the occasion was the 2007 Vino del Sol Manos Negras Malbec, Mendoza. Deep blood-red color. Warm, inviting nose of blackberry, spice and mocha. Aromas flow seamlessly onto the rich, spicy, chocolaty palate. The tannins are light and the acidity is rather low (borderline flabby?) so drink this now with something with spicy, south-of-the-border flavors. Consistent with my note from last month. About $15

2009 Velvet Devil Merlot

Took a flyer on the 2009 Charles Smith Wines The Velvet Devil Merlot, Columbia Valley tonight. Had it with assorted leftovers of paella and stuffed peppers. Pretty cranberry color. Nose is loaded with sweet, vanilla-cherry fruit and a hint of cured meat/salami. Palate reveals some tart cherry fruit and more than a touch of that vegetal/green/bay leaf flavor so common to inexpensive Merlot. Nice acidity prickles the tongue. No tannins to speak of. Enjoy now if this is your cup of tea. $12

2009 Olivares "Altos de la Hoya"

While this wine has been on my "best buy" list for the past couple of years, the 2009 Bodegas Olivares Altos de la Hoya Monastrell, Jumilla brings even more structure than previous vintages. Uncommonly complex for a wine in this price range, the nose throws floral/violet notes, a touch of cured meat, barnyard, the blackest of fruits and restrained French oak at you while the palate offers chalky, earthy, black cherry flavors. The texture is a bit coarse/chalky with balanced acidity and tannins and a pleasantly bitter finish. Not something I recommend for sipping, but lovely (in that rustic, earthy kind of way) with a steaming bowl of paella laden with chorizo and chicken. About $12

2010 Wairau River Sauv. Blanc and...shellfish!

Long before I began blogging about wine and food I had a scare that I attributed to a shellfish reaction. I'd been eating shrimp, crab, scallops, lobster all my life until I broke out in a nasty, nasty full-body rash after a week of heavy shellfish consumption on vacation at the Outer Banks of N.C. A doctor told me it was probably a late-onset food allergy and narrowed it down to either strawberries (couldn't be) or shellfish. So for the past 5-6 years I've been laboring under the assumption that I'm allergic to shellfish. But last week's trip to an allergist and subsequent skin test last week seemed to suggest that I don't have any allergy to shellfish. No idea what caused the breakout way back when, but according to this doctor it wasn't shellfish. So after a week or so of allowing the last vestiges of my paranoia to subside, I asked the guy at the meat counter for 8 of the biggest scallops he had.

Dinner was my take on this recipe for Coriander-Fennel Rubbed Sea Scallops with Watermelon-Green Tomato Salsa. One of the few foods on this planet I steadfastly refuse to eat is watermelon. Can't stand it. Never have liked it. So I used diced pineapple instead. The tomatoes were unripe green zebras that we picked yesterday. (We picked a 30-gallon bucket full of green tomatoes yesterday as it's supposed to freeze here this week.) The coriander seeds were from the cilantro that went to seed in our garden a few weeks ago. It's a pain to pick all the seeds off, but it's worth it. And the fennel seed is from my rapidly-dwindling stash from my late mother-in-law's garden. Even at 5-6 years old these fennel seeds are so much more intense than anything you can get at even a good spice purveyor like Penzey's.

Tonight's wine of choice was the 2010 Wairau River Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough. Regular readers of my blog know that I don't particularly care for this style of wine. I'm not a fan of the tart grapefruit and green bell pepper flavors so commonly associated with this type of wine. And while this wine certainly has a good amount of lemon and grapefruit on the nose and palate, the edges seem nice and polished and there is no trace of green pepper. I also pick up some nice notes of sweet thyme and wet stone in there, too. Not surprisingly, the acidity of this wine was dynamite with the tart green tomatoes that made up the bulk of the salsa. I don't see myself ever going long on New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, but I can appreciate the idea of keeping a few on hand for meals such as this. About $20

2008 Arizona Stronghold "Tazi"

I've been drinking wine for a good 20 years now but this is quite possibly the first time I've ever had a wine from the Great State of Arizona. The 2008 Arizona Stronghold Tazi, Cochise County is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Riesling and Malvasia Bianca. The light golden color is hardly indicative of the wine's full body. The wine is rather dull and lifeless straight from the refrigerator but after half an hour or so it reveals layers of musty earth, stone fruit (think: ripe apricot), melon and smoke. The palate is rich and oily, but never turns heavy or ponderous. Seems a touch sulfuric. I'm struggling to find something to compare this to. Maybe a dry Alsatian Riesling? About $20

It isn't all that pleasant to consume on its own, but it really hit a home run with tonight's improvised dinner of pork tenderloin/red potato/yellow pear tomatoes and a salad of garden fresh arugula, tomatoes and goat cheese tossed in a balsamic vinaigrette. The earthiness of the wine works particularly well with the potato hash while the acidity nicely balances the salad. Quite the interesting, complex wine. If this is any indication of Arizona's potential, then it's a state whose wine industry warrants attention.

I can also highly recommend the Merkin Chupacabra Cabernet/Syrah blend (sourced from California fruit) from the same ownership/winemaking team.

Loring Wine Company and charity auction

I had a wonderful time last night pouring some great wines for a really good cause. Just as I did last October, I spent yesterday evening pouring a selection of wines generously donated by Brian Loring for a dinner and auction benefitting the Crittendon Children's Center. Last year Brian donated a case of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir to pour for the guests to enjoy as well as a case of Pinot Noir to the auction. This year Brian enticed us by sending 6 bottles each of two different Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs as well as an additional case (Clos Pepe Vineyard Pinot Noir) for the Auction.

The first white I dove into was the 2010 Loring Wine Company Sierra Mar Vineyard Chardonnay, Santa Lucia Highlands. I found this wine to be very consistent with the note from the 2009 vintage of the same wine I poured last year. Once again, unapologetically rich and luxurious with notes of lemon curd, butter and nutmeg on the nose and a spicy, toasty palate. The unctuous palate is lifted by cleansing acidity that kicks in on the finish.


Is it possible that the 2010 Loring Wine Company Durell Vineyard Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast is even richer and more powerful than the Sierra Mar? You bet it is! In addition to the heavy toast and roasted nut aromas, this wine shows decadent tropical pineapple/mango fruit on the nose and palate. The pleasantly bitter finish is a nice counterpoint to the sweet fruit. Simply amazing. Some might recoil in horror at Loring's philosophy of going back to that "bigger is better" style of Chardonnay that ruled the 90s, but I applaud it. There are plenty of Rieslings, Sauvignon Blancs, unoaked Chards, etc. out there if I want something light and crisp. I'm glad Loring's wines are available when I want a big, buttery white to go with something like scallops or crabackes.

The first of the two reds I tried was the 2009 Loring Wine Company Keefer Ranch Pinot Noir, Green Valley/Russian River Valley.The more elegant of the two Pinots, the nose on this deeply colored wine was full of smokey cherry fruit and a hint of sweet herb (think: rosemary, lavender). Typical of the Loring style, this is a medium-full bodied Pinot with great structure and a long, acidic finish. Of the Loring wines poured at the event, this is the only one available in Kansas and it retails for $49.99

The final offering was the 2009 Loring Wine Company Rancho La Vina Pinot Noir, Santa Rita Hills. This spicy, Zin-like Pinot was quite reminiscent of the 08 Loring Russell Family Vineyard Pinot (from Paso Robles) that I poured last year. This wine holds nothing back with its saturated blueberry and sweet cherry fruit and black pepper notes on the nose and palate. It's very tannic for a Pinot Noir with additional notes of oak and dust on the palate and a long, dry cocoa finish. As delicious as it is atypical.

Since I was pouring the entire time I didn't really get to see what other wineries (many from Kansas and Missouri) and distributors were pouring, but I can't possibly convey the number of people I had come up asking for second, third and even fourth pours of Loring's wines. Overall, the comments were very favorable and I had dozens of people tell me that these were the best wines featured at the event. Funny, I heard a lot of the same thing last year! Thanks to Brian Loring for making such delicious wines and being so charitible with his product. I hope the case of Clos Pepe fetched an appropriate amount at auction.

2010 Clos du Bois Sauv. Blanc, 2009 Treasure Hunter Cab. Sauv.

2010 Clos du Bois Sauvignon Blanc, North Coast - Very pale color. Light lemon, tart grapefruit nose. Seems pretty watered-down on the tart, herbaceous palate. May appeal to fans of New Zealand style Sauvignon Blanc, but I'm not a buyer at this, or any price. I really just don't understand the whole concept of these overly generic, mass produced wines. How much more effort does it take to seek out a bottle of Mason (California) or Walnut Block Collector's (New Zealand) for the same $10?

2009 Treasure Hunter Silk Sling Cabernet Sauvignon, St. Helena - Deep, vibrant purple hue. Although the AVA listed on the label is "St. Helena," a little bit of digging on the Kit Fox Vineyards website reveals that the true origin of this wine is the base of Spring Mountain. And let me tell you, folks, this is classic Spring Mountain Cabernet. (Someone cue the evil, spooky organ music.) Huge nose of cherry Jolly Rancher candy, Bourbon (I have no doubt this is aged in American oak) and a considerable green leafy/tobacco note. The tannins on the palate are as big as the fruit is tart. Super dry with a long, long dusty finish. Although I don't care at all for this style of wine, I can tell it's well made and very representative of its origin or terroir. About $25.

I was much more impressed with the 2008 Treasure Hunter Radio Caroline Cabernet Sauvignon that I had last December. How I have such an affinity for Diamond Mountain wines and such an aversion to the wines from neighboring Spring Mountain is anybody's guess.

2006 Buehler Estate Cabernet and 2008 Dunning Zinfandel

Fans of old school Napa Cabs will certainly enjoy the 2006 Buehler Vineyards Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley. Pretty, deep crimson color. The pleasantly vegetal/barnyard nose features dried currant, Bourbon, cedar and shoe polish while the palate is rather monolithic with its dry, cedary notes and huge tannins. No over-the-top kirsch liqueur or melted asphalt here. While the wine is aged in a combination of new American (50%) and new French (35%) oak, the Bourbon notes from the American oak are far more prominent at this time. Not really my cup of tea, but my wife loved it. If you don't want to pay $100 for a bottle of Silver Oak, you can get pretty much the same flavors out of this wine for about a third of the price.

And a quick note on Saturday night's pizza wine. The 2008 Dunning Vineyards Ridge Top Zinfandel, Paso Robles continues to impress with its deep color and appealing aromas of sweet cherry, black pepper and slick French oak. Extremely peppery palate makes it a great pairing with a trio of home made pizzas. The 15.2% alcohol is apparent, but I don't mind that in a full-throttle Paso Robles Zin like this one. Assertive tannins and acidity suggest this could lay down for a few years, but I won't be doing that. Consistent notes on day two. $28 or so from the winery.

2007 40 Nights Red Wine

No, no, "40 nights" doesn't refer to how long it's been since I've posted a decent note on this blog. While it may seem like it's been that long, in this case it refers to the 2007 Fortnight Wine Company 40 Nights Red Wine, Washington State. A Side project of Dusted Valley Vintners, this Syrah-based blend (also contains small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec) represents an exceptional value for a mere $10-12. The color is nothing to get too excited about. It's somewhere between that which you would expect from a Pinot Noir and a Merlot; a bit lighter than I would expect from a Syrah. But most folks will (correctly) tell you that color is overrated anyway. Moving right along, the nose reveals layers of smoke, cherry Jolly Rancher, menthol and a good bit of wet stone. That wet stone manifests itself on the palate as a tremendous sense of iron/mineral; reminiscent of the delicious Yard Dog Red I enjoyed last month. Cool climate Syrah through-and-through with more emphasis on the menthol/wintergreen/green peppercorn side of Syrah rather than the over-the-top fruit that I'm accustomed to from Syrahs from California's Central Coast. The wonderful acidity made this wine a great pairing with a bowl of baked rigatoni with sausage and tomato sauce. Really over delivers.

Having tried a couple of the wines from Dusted Valley's Boomtown range (the Merlot and Pinot Gris are particularly enjoyable) and now this, I am interested in trying some of the more high-end offerings from this winery. Looking at their website I see they are producing a Petit Verdot as well as an enticing array of Rhone-style varietals including Cinsault and Grenache. Note to self: contact LDF next week and find out which, if any, of these wines are distributed in Kansas.

Dereliction of Duty.....

Yeah, I know, I know. It's been almost 3 weeks since I've posted anything here. As the picture above suggests, it isn't for lack of drinking. But we've had a lot of friends and family over during the past couple of weeks. And while we've had copious amounts of wine, some of it exceptional, I just haven't had the heart to geek out with tasting notes or blog updates. Plus, most of the wines we had were wines that I've already blogged on over the past couple of months. Had I been taking notes, standouts would have included wines such as Pomelo Sauvignon Blanc, Four Vines Old Vine Cuvee Zinfandel, Sean Minor Red Wine, Marquis Phillips Holly's Blend White Wine, Zaca Mesa Z Cuvee and Conn Creek Herrick Red.

Things are pretty much back to normal around here (It's certainly a lot quieter with out the roosters, turkeys and ducks!) and we've got some exciting new wines in stock at work. Hopefully I'll get back to posting tasting notes this weekend. Stay tuned...!

Farm Update!

We're planning on processing our turkeys, ducks and all but one of our roosters this weekend. The three turkeys are the right size for butchering and our excess of roosters is fostering a lot of disharmony in the flock. So we're taking them across the street to our neighbors who are also processing a lot of their birds this weekend. Probably a good thing that we're getting rid of the turkeys this weekend because I'm afraid of getting any more attached to them. Just look at this guy! How cool is he?

That's our male caramel/white runner duck in the foreground and the female mottled duck in the background. They're going away this weekend, too. They're cute, but pretty useless as farm animals. Mottled ducks aren't particularly prolific egg layers. All they're really doing is eating food and turning the turkey/duck pen into a muddy mess. Ideally, we're going to make a home made turducken for Christmas!

And I'm putting up a few pictures of the chickens. When we bought the house there were two dog kennels attached to the back of one of the garages. A few weeks ago I tore down the wall separating the kennels and made the area into one large chicken coop.

Here's what it looked like when I turned one of the kennels into a coop for our initial flock:

And here it is now:

Here are some of the older hens and roosters hanging out in the yard on this chilly, gray morning. You can see the coop in the background:

As of Sunday, we'll end up with 1 Buff Orpington hen, 4 Barred Plymouth Rock hens, 3 Black Australorp hens, 2 Production Red hens, 6 Buff Orpington/Black Australorp cross hens and 1 Buff Orpington rooster. We're currently getting 9-10 eggs per day with a couple of those being the smaller pullet eggs from the Production Reds. Any day now the Buff/Australorp crosses should start laying pullet eggs. And a month from now we'll probably be getting 15-16 eggs per day!

The beautiful Buff Orpington/Black Australorp crosses:

These are all chickens that we hatched here at the farm and slowly integrated into the larger flock. I'm not sure how the genetics work, but half of them have dark heads and the other half have buff-colored heads. All have the same Buff Orpington dad but they come from 3 different Black Australorp hens. They're really pretty with variegated black/buff feathers and quite gentle; if still a bit skittish. I think they'll be a little more friendly once they are no longer being terrorized by 6-7 randy young roosters all day long!

The goats are still doing well. No new pictures of them as they really haven't changed much other than the fact that they've grown some. They're still hanging out eating hay and nibbling on weeds all day.

And the garden is doing well, too. Last week's cold snap seems to have stymied the tomatoes' ripening, but we've got hundreds of green ones just waiting around for the warm weather to return next week. Still getting cucumbers. The bell peppers are getting larger and starting to ripen into gorgeous orange and purple hues. Picked a bunch of jalapenos last week and pickled them. And, of course, we're still getting all the fresh basil, rosemary, thyme, chives and oregano we can consume.

Last week my wife planted second crops of carrots, green beans, beets and arugula. Some of those are already starting to sprout.

2006 Lindaflor "Petit Fleur"

This is the third (and final) time I've had the 2006 Lindaflor Petit Fleur, Mendoza in the last 14 months or so and unfortunately it seems to be getting worse and worse. The wine is a blend of unspecified amounts of Malbec, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon.



My note from July of 2010 says "Fantastic color, blueberry, blackberry, coffee grounds and black pepper. Hint of cured meat/salami. Loads of dark fruits and spice on the palate. Big tannins and acidity."

Fast forward to February of this year and I get "Cotes du Rhone, black pepper, raspberry, spice, herb and coffee. Sweet and fat with chocolate, coffee and raspberry. Slightly medicinal, meaty aromas and alcohol have subsided, atypical."

Tonight the wine is just a goopy, syrupy mess of stewed fruit and cough syrup that doesn't speak of Argentina or Malbec. The color is still a dark, vibrant ruby but I'm not longer noting any of the dark fruits, spice or coffee from previous bottles. There's a decided element of herbal cough syrup/Jagermeister going on in the glass and the palate has lost all definition. The finish is still decently long, but long here doesn't equal profound - or even pleasurable. Good enough pairing with tonight's delicious Cajun-spiced rotisserie chicken, but really falls apart one the food is gone. I guess I have to admit my initial "drink now or hold for 5 years" advice was pretty far off base. If you have any of this, I'd recommend drinking it now. About $20.

Platinum Italian Wine Tasting

I was treated to a tour de force (apologies to a certain Monktown lawyer) of high end Italian wines last Thursday, Sept 8. The wines were graciously donated by Chris Tridle, Import Regional Manager of Winebow and Jeff Miller, Jr., Sales Division Manager at Glazer's Wholesale.

The first wine of the evening was an "unofficial" pour that Chris and Jeff had left over from the day's sales calls. The 2010 Botromagno Poggio al Bosco, Gravina was a beautiful blend of Malvasia and Greco that showed powerful yeasty/smoky and dry pear aromas on the nose and rich, melon flavors on the palate. Reminds me of a really nice domestic Pinot Gris. Price unknown.

After the so-called "bonus pour" was finished off we moved on to the 2009 Zenato Lugana, San Benedetto DOC. Crisp and clean, this straw-colored wine was packed full of peachy orchard fruit on the nose and palate with zippy acidity. 100% Trebbiano and very tasty for a mere $15. Should be quite nice as an aperitif or with lighter food.

The 2007 Prunotto Mompertone, Piedmont was the first red of the evening. This blend of 60% Barbera and 40% Syrah starts off rather grapey and primal but opens up to reveal layers of plum, violets and spice. Barrique aging comes across in the coffee aroma and flavor. Quite smooth and ready to drink now for $25.

Next up was the 2007 Poggio al Tesoro Mediterra, IGT Toscana. hailing from the Bolgheri sub-region of Tuscany, the Mediterra is warm and slightly alcoholic with sweet/tart red berries and a long, dry, tannic finish. I have to say this was probably my least favorite wine of the evening. Just seemed a little bit thin and restrained. $25.

Switching gears, we next moved to the northeast corner of Italy with the 2006 Allegrini La Grola, Veneto. A single vineyard blend of Corvina, Rondinella, Syrah and Sangiovese, this wine was among my favorites. Deep redfruit compote, hickory/campfire notes, tobacco and coffee are all present in this one. Aged 16 months in French oak. Note: Replace the Syrah and Sangiovese with Molinara and this wine would qualify under italian law to be labeled as Ripasso as it is re-fermented over the dried and pressed skins from Allegrini's Amarone. Another winner at $25.

The 2006 Castello di Bossi Berardo, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG is one of the best Chiantis I have had in recent memory. This rich, voluptuous Sangiovese offers notes of sweet blackberry, violets and smoke. Beautifully crafted in the international style with lower acidity and moderate tannins. Very reasonably priced at $35.



Sangiovese's larger cousin is the Sangiovese Grosso clone used to make the 2004 Poggio San Polo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG. Displays the traditional brow hue (from which the term Brunello is derived) and aromas of violets and anise that one expects from Brunello di Montalcino. Also shows a lot of barnyard, hickory, mushroom and coffee. Firm acidity and big tannins suggest this one could last a long, long time in the cellar but the lack of fruit is a slight concern. About $80.

I think perhaps the most interesting, exotic wine of the evening was the 2008 Argiolas Korem, IGT Isola dei Nuraghi. Primarily made from the Bovale Sardo grape (something I have no experience with) I tasted this one with no preconceived notions. What I got was wave upon wave of raspberry, vanilla, menthol (later turns to peppermint) and herbaceous wild berries. Lean and smoky with mouthwatering acidity, I really want to try this with some braised shanks. Kudos to Argiolas for sticking with native Sardinian grape varieties. A fascinating $48.

Another grape that I am not terribly familiar with, Aglianico, served as the base for the next two wines I enjoyed. The 2006 Mastroberardino Radici, Taurasi DOCG is done unapologetically in the international style with blueberries, blackberries, maraschino cherry, flowers and tar on the nose and palate. Quite tannic, yet remarkably accessible. Aged two years in barrique. Drink now or hold. A bit pricey at $58.

The 2008 Fattori Galardi Terra di Lavoro, IGT Roccamonfina is a stunning wine with Port-like concentration. Deep purple in color with black olive, smoke, tobacco and graphite notes this was the perfect counterpoint to the fruit bomb Radici. I suspect this wine will last practically forever when cellared under the proper conditions. If I were in the market for $85 wines, I would certainly take a chance on laying down a few of these Aglianico/Piedirosso blends.



The final wine of the evening was the full-bodied 2008 Azienda Agricola Montrevetrano, IGT Colli Salerno. A blend of 60% Cabernet, 30% Merlot and 10% Aglianico, the wine is pretty typical (at least in my experience) of a Bordeaux blend from Italy. Black currant, tobacco, vanilla and licorice are all present, but there seems to be a sense of green/unripeness pervading the wine. Finish turns quite leathery and tannic. $78.

My goodness! What an amazing array of wines representing nearly every major winemaking region of Italy. I definitely want to pick up some Lugana and Allegrini La Grola and might even spring for a couple of the the Argiolas Korem. Big thanks to Chris and Jeff for their generosity with both their time and their wines!

2009 Sean Minor Red Wine

Being the unapologetic Sean Minor fan that I am, you can imagine my excitement at seeing the LDF driver drop off two cases of the 2009 Sean Minor Red Wine, Napa Valley at the store this afternoon. I've been waiting for this to hit Kansas for a few months now and I just had to buy a bottle to taste this evening. This is a fascinating blend of 30% Merlot, 23% Petit Verdot, 17% Zinfandel, 16% Petite Sirah, 10% Syrah and 4% Malbec. The color is fabulous. The nose reveals layers of blue and black fruits, spice, hickory smoke and, to a lesser degree, licorice and green tobacco. Wonderfully balanced on the palate with the aforementioned blue and black fruits getting a boost from a graphite/iron-like quality that I assume stems from the disproportionately large amount of Petit Verdot in the blend. Medium-full bodied with nice tannins that don't really clamp down until the finish. My only knock on this wine is a strange metallic flavor that creeps in on the finish. But overall, a very impressive package that retails in the $20 range.

2007 Manos Negras Malbec

I don't have a whole lot to say about the 2007 Vino del Sol Manos Negras Malbec, Mendoza other than the fact that it is another in a long line of well-made, tasty, affordable Argentinian Malbecs. Nice color. Quite smoky for a Malbec (more on that later) with deep red and black fruits on the nose and palate. Medium-bodied with fruit, acid and tannin all nicely balanced. Turns a bit chocolaty on the finish. Like I said, nothing really jumps out here and screams "spectacular," but it's a perfectly satisfying wine that checks in around $15.

Last night's dinner was smoked/braised beef short ribs which I purchased from a local butcher shop (I'm being generous with the term "local" as Bichelmeyer's is damn near an hour from my house). I've been braising short ribs in the osso bucco style for 20 years now, but it wasn't until last year that I was introduced to the idea of lightly smoking them (this time over apple and hickory wood and pecan shells) before simmering them until fall-off-the-bone tender. Tip of the cap to Chef Renee Kelly for the inspiration. I braised them in onions, celery, carrots, garlic, red wine and home made chicken stock for 5-6 hours. The fork-tender beef was served over a mound of Yukon gold potatoes which were smashed with butter, buttermilk, fresh chives and a drizzle of porcini-infused olive oil. The smokiness of the wine really worked well with the meat. As I was standing in the cellar last night I was waffling between the Manos Negras a 2007 Dunning Syrah and I'm really glad I went with the Malbec.

2009 Red Heads Studio "Yard Dog Red"

For some reason I've always had a thing for Petit Verdot. The first Petit Verdot-heavy blend I ever tasted (a mid-90s vintage of von Strasser Reserve) intrigued me and I've been seeking out wines featuring this grape ever since. While any red wine fan on the planet is familiar with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec, Petit Verdot is treated like an outcast. Anything more than 5% or so in a Bordeaux blend is pretty rare. And varietal bottlings (Heller and Jekel make pretty darn good ones) are as elusive as a fashionable mullet.

So when I saw the blend on the back label of the 2009 Red Heads Studio Yard Dog Red, South Eastern Australia, I just had to try a bottle. And I was not disappointed. This blend of 60% Petit Verdot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot has a rich garnet color, but none of that freakish opacity that sucks the color out of the room. The nose is a beautiful combination of cherry compote and spiced cranberries reminiscent of a Thanksgiving table. Is there a bit of tar in there, too? No hint of oak on this one. The other thing missing from this wine is the floral/violet that so many people associate with this grape. Oh, well. What's in there is pretty enough for me to overlook the AWOL flowers. The palate shows lots of sweet/tart cranberry and cherry flavors backed by moderate tannins and a solid core of graphite/mineral that I look for from Petit Verdot. Long, sweet/tart finish adds a final note of bitter cocoa. All in all, a very pleasant wine and way more complex than a $10 wine should be.

And a side note: I'd like to think I'm above being influenced by wine labels, but this one is really fun. It's got a mangy-looking dog with muddy paws baring his fangs looking like he's up to no-good. Apparently, this was an intentional jab at the Australian winemakers consumed with cutesy labels featuring cartoonish kangaroos and koala bears. Well done!

Just in case you missed it the first time around, here's a link to my review of the excellent Yard Dog White blend from a few months back.