'08 Nicklaus and '10 Montoya Cabernets + Others

A belated note on a couple of Napa Valley Cabernets enjoyed with my father-in-law last week over a grilled tri-tip. The 2010 Montoya Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley was super dry with fantastic color. Nose was all over the place with tar, tart blackberry, sweet maple and American oak notes. Not a whole lot of fruit on the palate. Massive tannins and a long, dry finish. I suspect those tannins will preserve this wine for a long time, but I question whether or not there is enough fruit for this to age gracefully. I have two more of these in the cellar. About $20

Far better, at least at this stage, was the 2008 Nicklaus Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley. This private label wine (made by Terlato) shows a faded cranberry color with aromas of maple syrup, brown sugar and sweet cherries. Nicely balanced with a hint of bell pepper and sweet cedar flavors on the palate. Long, sweet finish. About $30 on release, but purchased on close-out for $10.

More recent tastes include the 2011 Sean Minor Sauvignon Blanc, California which I found to be more tart, lemony and herbaceous than previous renditions of this wine when it carried a Sonoma County appellation (and a lot more sweet, tropical fruit). That being said, it was very refreshing with a salad tossed with a Dijon-ranch dressing and topped with grilled chicken breast. Still an excellent value at $11.

Less satisfying with the same meal was the 2012 Herencia Altes Garnatxa Blanca D.O. Terra Alta. Not a bad wine, but just too much focus on mineral and sea breeze notes and nearly devoid of fruit. About $10.

Tonight we enjoyed the deeply intense 2011 Tarima Monastrell, D.O. Vinos Alicante with hamburgers off the grill. Opaque, slightly cloudy color gives way to a complex nose of coffee, bittersweet cocoa, mulling spices, pomegranate and licorice. Wonderful chalky, leesy texture on the palate with leathery pomegranate fruit and more licorice. Great balance of tannins and fruit, but I wouldn't bother trying to age this into anything better than it is right here and now. I think this could easily stand up to heartier fare; including venison and lamb. At $10, this reinforces my notion that the world's best wine values hail from Spain.

2008 Gary Farrel Chardonnay, Carneros

Just a brief note on the 2008 Gary Farrell Carneros Selection Chardonnay, Carneros. This is a splendid example of a California Chardonnay with a few years age on it which is drinking beautifully right now. Clear, medium golden color still looks quite youthful. Wonderful aromatics of bruleed pineapple, mango, honey, and toasty, vanilla-oak. Retains plenty of decadent tropical fruit on the palate as well as bright acidity. Pleasantly bitter finish. Fantastic wine that I have to think was caught at its absolute peak. Another steal from my father-in-law's stash. Normally $30, purchased on close-out for $10.

Paired quite nicely with roasted chicken with a traditional southern sausage/cornbread dressing and steamed broccoli.

Tremendous Father's Day Dinner with Wines

Spent a relaxing Father's Day yesterday that began with a sweltering jog and ended with a feast fit for a king. Sandwiched in between was a couple of hours vegging on the couch watching the US Open and the NBA Finals (Go Spurs!). Dinner was a delicious venison stroganoff with wild mushrooms and home made creme fraiche.

 To go with the food, I chose two Pinots with a few years on them. First up was my father-in-law's contribution. The 2008 Ici/La-Bas Les Révélés Elke Vineyard Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley has a faded color, odd since it is a year younger than the other wine on the table. Hi-toned floral notes lift the earthy, barnyardy nose. Not much fruit to celebrate here, but the earthy notes perfectly compliment the food. Unspectacular finish and a touch alcoholic for the stated 13.5%. About $40

I think the far better wine was the 2007 Merry Edwards Meredith Estate Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley. Still featuring a super deep color, The nose is an insane melange of raspberry and freshly muddled mint leaves. Incredibly youthful fruit on the palate with hints of campfire/hickory wood. Rich and buttery, yet perfectly balanced. Tthe fruit preservation here is quite amazing. Juicy acidity. About $75

For dessert, my daughter made a delicious no-bake Key Lime cheesecake. With that, I opened my last bottle of 1996 Weingut Kurt Darting Durkheim Frohnof Scheurebe Trockenbeerenauslese, Pfalz - Color of 20 year old tawny port. Thick and rich with nearly indescribably intense grapefruit and citrus notes on both the nose and palate. Quite sweet, but still plenty of acidity to keep everything perfectly balanced. But I would drink this sooner rather than later as the acid wasn't quite as electrifying as it was 10 years ago. A truly sublime pairing with the dessert.

2011 Brandlin "Bald Mountain Vineyard" Zinfandel

Had an amazing Zinfandel tonight. The best Zinfandel I've had in recent memory and a shoe-in for my Top 10 wine list for 2013. This one was purchased by my father-in-law through his membership in the wine club at Cuvaison. Regularly $38, this is available to club members for the very reasonable price of $28. Served alongside red peppers stuffed with ground venison, aromatics, rice and smoked paprika. The surprising earthiness of the wine made for an absolutely perfect match with the venison. Simply delicious.

The 2011 Brandlin Bald Mountain Vineyard Zinfandel, Napa Valley has a completely saturated color despite the cold, rainy season that resulted in a lot of lighter wines. The nose is wonderfully complex with raspberry, boysenberry, cracked black pepper and a certain earthiness I don't normally associate with this varietal. The palate has a deft balance of sweet raspberry fruit and black pepper with electrifying acidity and nice tannins that should easily preserve this wine for another 5-7 years. (But there's no way it would last that long in my cellar.) Lots of smoky French oak in here, too, but it never overshadows the wonderful fruit. 14.5% alcohol is not out-of-line.

Selection of Wines with Rotisserie Venison

2012 Seven Hills Pinot Gris, Oregon - Pure golden color, no hint of orange. Lots of dry tropical fruit (pineapple, mango) and mineral notes in the nose. On the palate, lots of dry pineapple flavors, a certain mintiness and a very pleasant bitterness that provides balance. Doesn't really stand out in a sea of $12 Pinot Gris, but it's very pleasant and drinkable nonetheless. Consumed as an aperitif while the venison was on the rotisserie.

2007 Domaines Schlumberger Les Princes Abbés Gewurztraminer, Alsace -Deep golden color. Absolutely insane aromatics of honeyed pineapple and peaches. Incredibly thick (and moderately sweet) on the palate with fruit cocktail notes and fantastic acidity. Makes me wish sauteed foie gras with an apricot jam reduction was on the menu tonight. But fantastic as an aperitif. Another ridiculous close-out purchase. $7.99, regularly $29.99.

2004 Voss Vineyards Syrah, Napa Valley - Still holding on remarkably well with a great, dark color and wonderful cherry, licorice and mocha notes on the nose and palate. Fruit, tannins and acidity are all in perfect harmony now. 15.0% alcohol doesn't seem to be intrusive. Wonderful with the rotisseried leg of lamb. There is a link to the winery here, but don't go there expecting to find any information on their Syrah. Sadly, Voss now only makes Sauvignon Blanc. Purchased on clearance for $5.99, regularly $25.99

2004 Maqrues de Griñon Petit Verdot, D.O. Dominio de Valdepusa - I don't know how you feel about the varying degrees of a wine being corked, but for me it's an all or nothing kind of deal. The slightest hint of wet newspaper and I'm looking for a replacement bottle. My father-in-law thought it was a little "off" but still drinkable. I couldn't get past the nose. Not even worth the clearance price of $7.99 (regularly $39.99).

With the Petit Verdot being a bust, we opened the 2006 Ceja Vineyards Merlot, Carneros. I don't recall having anything from this winery, but I was quite impressed with this one. Black cherry, chocolate, wintergreen and just a hint of bell pepper. The nose is quite captivating. Nice body and tannins for Merlot with a long, acidic finish. I wonder what this would have tasted like 3-4 years ago with a little more fruit in the glass. I'd take a pass at the normal price of $29.99, but it was a steal at the $6.99 clearance price. Truth be told, this would be a fine deal at $20.

2011 Chelsea Goldschmidt Merlot, Alexander Valley

I got an e-mail yesterday announcing that Off the Vine, the wine retail store where I worked from 2009-2012 is closing sometime in the next few weeks. The owners have been presented with a wonderful new wine-related business opportunity in Colorado and I wish them nothing but the nest of luck. I know they will love it there. To clear their inventory, they are offering the remaining stock at a generous discount. So I was there when the store opened this morning to pick up a few cases; some known and others unknown.

One of the "unknowns" I got this morning was the 2011 Chelsea Goldschmidt Merlot, Alexander Valley. I opened it tonight with burgers off the grill and couldn't possibly have been more pleased. Wonderfully deep cranberry color could easily pass for a Cabernet. The nose seemingly reveals another aroma with each and every sniff. Plum, sweet cherry, coffee, licorice and toasty oak. Around the 1-hour mark the wine turns decidedly minty. Beautiful balance on the palate as well with coffee bean, charred oak, sweet cherry and considerably more tannin that I expected from a $16 California Merlot. Am I too excited about this wine? I really don't think so. Highly recommended.