2007 Felsina "Berardenga" Chianti Classico

My usual treatment of a pork shoulder involves apple wood, a spice rub, many hours on a smoker and a bottle of Central Coast Zinfandel. Seeking some variety, I decided to switch gears tonight and do a little Italian thing. I pierced the shoulder all over with a sharp knife and then rubbed it down with a paste of grated garlic, olive oil and Italian herbs and spices. Roasted in a moderate oven for 6-7 hours, it took on a wonderful flavor and texture that was accentuated by a sauce made from the pan drippings, some crushed tomato and red wine. Side dishes were a polenta casserole (polenta squares layered with tomato sauce and cheese and baked) and steamed broccoli.

The 2007 Felsina Berardenga Chianti Classico is a Chianti of exceptional tradition and breeding. Deeper in color than most Tuscan Sangioveses, the nose is a complex witch's brew of coffee, anise, tar and wild berries. The palate shows the beautiful Tuscan dust, tar, herbs and dark berries that one would expect from such a noble Sangiovese. The acid is quite high; so high it's not particularly pleasurable to drink on its own. But it really shines with the appropriate food. Tannins are sufficient to warrant a few years aging. Pleasantly bitter (think: orange pith) on the finish Simply put, it would be hard to find a better Chianti in the low $20 price range.

2008 Alpha Box & Dice "Tarot" Grenache

I've already blogged about this wine a couple of times so I won't bore you with the details again. To put it bluntly, if you haven't taken advantage of the greatest value in the history of wine (The 2008 Alpha Box & Dice Tarot Grenache, Australia) yet, it's your loss. I've given you all the information you need about the abundant raspberry jam, vanilla bean and coffee you get for $12 or so. Nothing new to report here. Just buy some and enjoy it. You can thank me tomorrow.



Dinner was grass-fed lamb loin chops that I coated in mustard and then rolled in panko bread crumbs spiked with an assortment of herbs and spices. Tip of the cap to fellow WCWNer Gordon Drake for the inspiration for this one. The chops were served on top of a roasted red pepper risotto.

And is it just me, or are grass-fed meats overrated? We've been buying some of our meat from a local CSA for a good while now and I just don't think it stacks up very well against USDA prime beef or even those delicious racks of lamb you can buy at Costco for $15. There's certainly a lot of meaty/gamy flavor in grass-fed beef and lamb, but the texture really leaves a lot to be desired as it's very tough. I chalk this up to the lack of fat and marbling. I'm sure it's healthier, but it just doesn't deliver on texture and tenderness. Sorry, but I'm going with the (relatively) mass-produced stuff here.

2006 Lindaflor "Petite Fleur"

The 2006 Lindaflor Petite Fleur, Mendoza is reminding me a lot of a Cotes du Rhone tonight. With it's huge nose of black pepper, raspberry, spice, herb and coffee it is reminding me a lot of something I'd get from the south of France. The color is a good bit darker than an entry-level Rhone and the palate is sweet and fat with chocolate and the aforementioned coffee and raspberry. But the dry, herbal, slightly medicinal (my wife says it's cough syrup but I'm not willing to go that far) finish once again takes me back to the Mediterranean. The meaty aromas and alcohol have subsided since last time and the tannins seem in balance. Throwing a good bit of sediment. Overall a very nice wine; albeit a bit atypical of an Argentinian Malbec blend of Malbec, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. About $20

Dinner tonight was an assortment of pizza as we're used to doing around here on Friday nights. While the kids enjoyed their pepperoni, we had two new pizzas: one with arugula, prosciutto and eggs from our farm and an attempt to recreate the flavors of an Italian beef sandwich with rare roast beef and sauteed onions, red peppers, pepperoncini and garlic. Both pizzas were enjoyable, but I give the nod to the Italian beef sandwich pizza. And it certainly went better with the wine. That being said, I'm looking forward to giving the arugula pizza another try this summer with some intense arugula fresh from our garden.

2005 Chateau de Montfaucon Cotes du Rhone

I had a bottle of this earlier this month and I thought it was plagued by a bit of cork taint. So I decided to re-visit it tonight with leftover sausage and lentils. Thankfully, tonight's bottle of 2005 Chateau de Montfaucon Baron Louis, Cotes du Rhone showed no traces of wet cardboard or moldy basement. Rather, the nose is a beautiful combination of decadent raspberry fruit, rosemary, lavender and black pepper. Sweet raspberry and herbs follow on the dry, dry palate. Acidity is initially a bit aggressive, but it is tamed after being open for an hour or so. Carob notes and big, chalky tannins kick after a few hours. A blend of unspecified amounts of old vine Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Carignan, Mourvedre and Counoise. Very nice value in the $14 range.

2002 Garretson "Bulladoir" Syrah

With the wife out of town for the weekend, I thought I'd indulge myself in a couple of things she doesn't particularly care for: lentils and overripe Central Coast Syrah. Dinner was brown lentils and sun-dried tomatoes simmered in homemade chicken stock and topped with a store bought chicken sausage with sun-dried tomatoes and four cheeses. Upon visual inspection, the 2002 Garretson The Bulladoir Hoage Vineyard, Paso Robles still shows an impossibly dark color and concentration. The nose also hints at a similar level of concentration with soy sauce, Asian spice, blackberry jam and French oak filling the glass. The palate is dominated by thick, overripe blackberries, licorice and French oak. Very Port-like. Quite low in acid (and I would expect nothing less from Mat Garretson), this isn't for everyone. In fact, if you aren't a fan of those late-90s Australian Shiraz bombs, I'd say stay far away from this wine. Finish seems a bit short and alcoholic. On its last legs. If you have any of this in your cellar, I would recommend drinking it now. Furthermore, I think it compliments sun-dried tomatoes quite well.

I was a member of Mat's wine club for a number of years and always bought a bottle or two of the luxury-priced Bulladoir Syrah each year because of the story behind it as well as the quality of the wine. Mat, a University of Georgia graduate used to purchase these grapes from Terry Hoage, a former All-American football player at the University of Georgia and Paso Robles grape grower. The UGA connection was irresistible to me. Mat has since left the wine making business and now sells wine in Minnesota. Terry Hoage, however, now has his own winery in Paso Robles and makes exceptional Syrah, Grenache, Rhone-style blends, rose and white wines from Rhone varietals. I also bought from Hoage for many years until the prices got a bit out of my comfort zone. I highly recommend Hoage's wines if they are in your price range.

2005 Markham Merlot

How long has it been since I've had a bottle of Merlot? I honestly can't remember. Well over a year, I suppose. But I thought a Merlot would be the perfect wine to accompany a nice, home style meatloaf and cauliflower puree tonight. The 2005 Markham Vineyards Merlot, Napa Valley has a pretty cranberry color and opens with an impressive aromatic salvo of vanilla bean, coffee, raspberry puree and licorice. The palate more or less follows the nose with similarly pleasant flavors and that certain, light "hollowness" that separates Merlot from Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and other Bordeaux varietals. Unfortunately, the palate seems to be marred by an odd acidity that I don't recall being a major component of Merlot. Finish is nice and long with moderate tannins. After a few hours, the wine takes on an intriguing, Tuscan-like tar component. Aside from the acidity, this is a very pleasing wine that went quite well with dinner.

Markham has been a Merlot specialist for as long as I can remember enjoying wine; back into the very early 90s. They are to be commended for holding the line on pricing. I remember their wines being priced in the low-mid teens in the early 90s and their current release Merlot can still be had in the low $20s.

2008 Erath Pinot Gris

Dinner tonight was a French bistro-inspired menu of cream of asparagus soup, frisee salad and home made quiche Lorraine. Unfortunately, there was nothing from Alsace lurking in the cellar so I went to Plan B and had a Pinot Gris from another region. The 2008 Erath Pinot Gris, Oregon has a pleasantly pale golden color and an enticing nose of pineapple, pear, ginger and smoke. A touch of oxidation adds complexity. On the palate, it is medium-bodied (picks up weight as it opens and approaches room temp) with dry pineapple and pear flavors - not pear flesh, but the tannic, slightly bitter fruit peel. Long, smoky finish. Good acidity.