Monday, July 2, 2012
2008 Four Vines "Anarchy" and Duck
I really love duck. I eat it every time I see it on a restaurant menu and I make it rather frequently at home. But I always seem to have the breast seared to medium-rare with some sort of savory sauce (green peppercorn/cream/brandy is my favorite) or I enjoy the leg/thigh quarter as confit. So I wanted to try something different with the duck I bought last week. I ended up smoking it over maple wood and basting frequently with a soy/molasses/sambal glaze. I was quite nervous about smoking a duck (for nearly 3 hours!) to well done, but my fears were unfounded. The duck was moist and delicious with a beautiful pink smoke ring and an amazing, sticky skin. Wow! Just tremendous!
The wine for the evening was the 2008 Four Vines Anarchy, Paso Robles. I wanted something assertive to stand up to the bold, smoky flavors of the duck and I wasn't disappointed. This blend of Zinfandel (36%), Mourvedre (35%) and Syrah (29%) is a bit lighter than I would have expected. Decent medium cranberry hue, but no inky blackness. The nose is an amazing array of roasted meat, Provencal herb, raspberry and pomegranate molasses. The sweet herb and fruity molasses flavors carry through to the palate where medium tannins and electrifying acidity carry the day. The finish goes on for nearly a minute. The molasses notes nicely reflect the flavors of the duck glaze and the acidity is particularly lovely with the fatty duck skin. Just a perfect food and wine pairing. Regularly $40, but purchased on sale for $30 last spring in Atlanta.