2008 Dunning Private Reserve Syrah

We had the trip from hell on the way home from St. Louis today (90 minute standstill on I-70 do to a wreck, rained the entire time, restless kids, etc.) and didn't have a whole lot in the fridge/pantry to make for dinner once we got home. Quickly thawed out a couple of tuna steaks and added a beaten egg, some mayo, bread crumb, red onion and seasoning. Fried them in a little olive oil and turned them into some darn tasty tuna burgers. Topped them with a little mayo/chili-garlic sauce/lime juice. Needing something bold an assertive to accompany the tuna (and take the edge off the afternoon), I grabbed the first of my stash of 2008 Dunning Vineyards Private Reserve Syrah, Paso Robles.

I've had the 2005 and 2007 (numerous occasions) of this wine, but this is the first time I've had the 2008 since I tasted it from barrel in Paso about two years ago. So primal. So much potential. So delicious. The inkiest of black colors. The nose is still reminiscent of a barrel sample with grapey, yeasty, fermentation aromas with just a bit of coffee and French oak starting to peek through. Monstrous tannins on the palate are consistent with the previous vintage of this wine. Lots of dry cocoa, blackberry and black pepper on the palate, too. Wonderful acidity. Five years or so in the cellar and this should bloom into something beautiful. About $30

I'm currently sitting on four bottle of the '07 and one more '08, but I'm hoping to receive additional bottles of the '08 with the next shipment or two from Dunning.

2009 Morse Code Shiraz

The 2009 Henry's Drive Morse Code Shiraz, Padthway is, I suppose, all you can expect from a daily drinker from Down Under. Nothing to complain about with regards to the deep, lush color. A cup of the ubiquitous dark fruit (I used blackberry, feel free to substitute blueberry or black cherry if that's all you have), a tablespoon of spice, a scant teaspoon of cured meat and a pinch of citric acid and you've got the recipe for this one. To its credit, the wine sees no new oak and the tannins are negligible. Although the wine does not fall into the category of the syrupy, low acid/high alcohol Shiraz that Australia was so (in)famous for a decade ago, the fruit/acid balance here seems a bit, um, manipulated - kind of like sucking on a piece of sour candy. About $10

Perfectly decent with a jerk seasoned pork tenderloin grilled over my new favorite culinary discovery - coconut shell charcoal.

2005 Eaglepoint Ranch Petite Sirah

Do you ever have one of those dinners where everything comes together just right? The food is perfect, the wine is firing on all cylinders and the marriage of the food and wine is greater than the sum of its parts? Well, I got one of those tonight. Simply divine in every sense of the word. Dinner was some pheasant breast my wife's boss just shot in Iowa that I wrapped in bacon and smoked over cherry and apple wood. While the pheasant was smoking, I made a simple risotto that, when finished, I stirred in some diced beets (from our garden) that I had roasted last night. The flavors were as delicious as the risotto's color was shocking!

With dinner we enjoyed the last of our six bottles of 2005 Eaglepoint Ranch Winery Petite Sirah, Mendocino County. We've always enjoyed this wine, but tonight's bottle was by far its best showing. It had all the earthiness, chalkiness and dry cocoa flavors of the previous bottles, but the roasted meat and sweet blackberry seemed even more generous than I remember. The color is still amazingly youthful and the tannins are still fierce. But I love it at this stage and wouldn't dream of keeping it beyond the fruit's life. Once again, the 14.7% alcohol is well hidden and there is no trace of oak. Finishes with a really pretty note of dry cinnamon.

2008 Razor's Edge Shiraz/Grenache

Tried the 2008 Razor's Edge Shiraz/Grenache, McLaren Vale tonight with some awful take-out pizza. (But I won't hold that against the wine.) The color is a deep and dark as you would expect from a full throttle Aussie red. Lots of juicy raspberry and cranberry fruit in the nose as well as some distressing rubber/tar aromas. Although the wine is aged in 50% new American and 50% 2nd and 3rd fill French oak barrels, I don't get any oak on the nose or palate. Kudos to the winemaker for keeping the oak in check. Palate is a bit tart with the unripe raspberry and cranberry fruit. Starts off rather thick and syrupy, but after an hour or so the acidity starts to assert itself and lighten the wine. Moderate tannins. Finish is long and slightly bitter with tart fruit and hickory smoke. Overall, just seems to be lacking in richness. A slightly disappointing $14.

2006 Cartlidge & Browne Reserve Cabernet

Every once in a while you call upon a wine to lay down a sacrifice bunt but it overachieves with a 2-run homer. And tonight's 2006 Cartlidge & Browne Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley does just that. I bought this intending to drink it as one of those 5th or 6th bottles of the evening at a large family gathering. But for whatever reason, the wine was never opened and it found its way down into the cellar. Bummed that I didn't have any Malbec on hand for tonight's devastatingly delicious grilled flank steak with chimichurri I dejectedly grabbed the C&B just to have something red to go with dinner.

But I have to say, for $17 this baby really over-delivers! Beautiful color. Nose is warm and inviting with scents of dark cherry, vanilla, sweet pipe tobacco and cedar. medium-bodied with good acidity and only moderate tannins, this probably isn't built for the long haul. But it's very enjoyable in the here and now with its sweet cherry, vanilla and bitter chocolate flavors. Bitter chocolate flavors continue on throughout the nice, long finish.

For the last twenty years, I've always thought of Cartlidge & Browne as merely a player in the California "fighting varietal" arena as I've had countless innocuous bottles of their inexpensive California appellation Cabernet, Merlot, Chardonnay, etc. But I have to give them kudos for bringing something serious to the table with this wine.

2008 Seventy Five Wine Company "The Sum" Red Wine

Just a quick note on tonight's bottle of 2008 Seventy Five Wine Company The Sum Red Wine, California. This blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Petit Sirah and 10% Syrah continues to impress with its dark fruits, menthol, cocoa powder and peppery spice. Pleasantly oaky with a long, cocoa, bay leaf finish. Really nice value for about $20 and just dandy with BBQ chicken from the smoker.

2009 Sean Minor Red Wine

When I'm stuck in a rut of mediocre (and worse) wines, I tend to return to an old friend to get me out of the slump. So tonight I grabbed a bottle of 2009 Sean Minor Red Wine, Napa Valley to help me erase the memories of the wines I suffered through last week. Dinner this evening was homemade beef and pork meatballs with a yellow tomato sauce (from the garden, of course) over soft, cheesy polenta. And the wine pairing was fantastic. Obligatory deep color. nose of ripe blackberry, red licorice and sweet floral perfume. Medium-full body with notes of black fruits, cocoa, a hint of bay leaf, mineral and a long vanilla-chocolate finish. Overall, a seamless package with great length and balance. The iron/graphite component from the last time I had this seems to be missing, but trust me, there's still plenty in here to justify the purchase. This blend of Merlot, Petit Verdot, Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Syrah and Malbec is a ridiculous buy at under $20.

On a completely unrelated note, just how bad does my digital camera suck? My 8 megapixel Olympus simply doesn't do justice to my beautiful dinner. Guess I need to stick to just grabbing label shots off the internet....

2009 Paul Mas Picpoul de Pinet

What happened here? I've had the 2009 Paul Mas Estate Picpoul de Pinet, Coteaux de Languedoc a couple of times over the past few weeks, but it's always been in the midst of a large crowd or family dinner when taking notes just wasn't practical. Now that I get a chance to spend some quality time with a bottle it takes a decided turn for the worse. Whereas previous bottles have been light and lively with lovely floral/peach/apricot/mineral aromatics and flavors, this bottle seems dull and lifeless with odd earthy/truffle notes and no acidity to speak of. Comes across as much heavier than previous tastings as well. It's like someone took my spry New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and replaced it with a tired, old California Chardonnay. A perplexing $15.

I almost hesitate to make this post as I know this note isn't indicative of this wine's potential, but I'm recording it for posterity anyway. Based on how good this wine has been to me in the past, I'm recommending it despite tonight's unflattering review.

I was inspired to open this tonight (I thought it would have lots of pretty citrus notes) based on the rub I applied to a whole chicken before roasting. I took some fennel seeds, kosher salt and black pepper and put it in a spice grinder with some fresh orange zest. Then I stuffed it under the loosened skin and roasted at 400 degrees until done. The chicken was delicious. I wish the wine had been as good.

2009 Paul Mas Carignan

Had the 2009 Paul Mas Estate Carignan Vieilles Vignes, Pays d'Herault tonight. Usually reduced to the role of bit player in Rhone blends, this varietal Carignan shows quite a bit of character even if it isn't done in a style that I'm really on top of. The nose is very Old World with iodine, blood, cured meat and herbal overtones. Earthy, herbal palate with some coarse, hickory-like notes. Not much fruit to speak of on the nose or palate. No tannins to speak of. Decent acidity. Finishes with earthy, dry chocolate and ashen notes. If you like your Rhone wines with lots of funky, earthy flavors, this wine might be for you. About $15.

This was another one of those wines that was pretty difficult to enjoy on its own. But it really sang with tonight's rustic home made pizza with blue cheese crumbles and sliced green olives.