2008 Gnaughty Vines Zinfandel

The 2008 Gnaughty Vines Old Vine Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley has a pleasant color; perhaps a bit lighter than expected. Straight from the bottle, the wine is really covered up by a forest of new American oak. After a while, though, the oak starts to fade a bit, revealing plenty of cherry and raspberry fruit and a good bit of spicy black pepper. Medium-full bodied with nice tannins and plenty of acid to provide balance. it isn't shy about the 15.0% alcohol, but there's plenty of fruit in there to keep it in check. Delicious with smoked pork tostadas.

For $15, I'd call this a pretty decent value. The flavor profile, while a bit lighter, is somewhat comparable to the venerable Seghesio Sonoma County Zinfandel. But I would prefer to invest a few more dollars in a bottle of Plungerhead's super peppery Dry Creek Valley Zin.

2010 NxNW Riesling

It's pretty rare that I just open a bottle of wine for the heck of it, but tonight I wanted something to sip on while I got caught up on a few episodes of Hell's Kitchen and Master Chef. So I twisted the screw cap on a bottle of 2010 NxNW Riesling, Horse Heaven Hills. I was immediately smitten by the intense honeyed melon and light petrol notes on the nose. On the palate, the bracing, green apple acidity is immediately apparent. Stone fruit and mineral characteristics become more apparent as the wine warms in the glass. And while I wouldn't call the texture oily, I like the medium weight viscosity. There is a small amount of residual sugar in the bottle (0.7 g/100ml) but for all intents and purposes I would consider this a dry Riesling. Offers really nice value in the $10 range.

2010 Massimo Malbec

You know me. It isn't a week in the ugawino household without a grilled flank steak with chimichurri and a bottle of Malbec. So I braved the brutal heat, oppressive humidity and bellowing winds (only in Kansas will you find this odd mix of crazy, hot wind and godawful humidity) to fire up the grill and deliver the perfect medium-rare flank steak. Sides were smashed potatoes with cream and parsley and green beans (from the garden) sauteed with slivered almonds and shallots (also from the garden).

Tonight's bottled offered up to the gods of the recycling bin was the 2010 Prestige Vineyards Massimo Malbec, Mendoza. Pretty ruby-red color. Inviting nose of raspberry, cherry and sweet herb. If I didn't know better, I might've guessed this was a Cotes-du-Rhone. Nice balance of fruit and spice on the palate with some green tobacco. Good tannins. Finishes a bit green. But you could do a lot worse for $10. Prestige Vineyards is an international negociant owned by DFV Wines.

1998 Argiano Solengo

For my Father's Day dinner, I grilled a couple of pork tenderloins rubbed with Italian herbs over charcoal. As the pork was grilling, I made a basic risotto. Right before the risotto was done, I stirred in some ribbons of beet greens just until they were wilted. Overall, an excellent meal. The pork was grilled to perfection and I love the earthiness the beet greens added to the risotto. I need to explore more options for beet greens.

The wine I selected for the meal was the 1998 Argiano Solengo, IGT Toscana. The first four vintages of this proprietary blend were 25% each Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sangiovese and Syrah. (Since 2000, it has been a Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot blend.) I bought a few bottles each of the '96, '97 and '98 on release and this is the last of my small stash. Any notes I have from previous bottles are lost on files on older computers, but I don't recall being particularly impressed with any of them. This bottle, from the weakest vintage I bought, shows an advanced, brick-red color. Very woody, cedar-like nose with hints of licorice and mineral. Nearly devoid of fruit, the palate is all about Tuscan terroir of dusty licorice and road tar. Still very tannic with nice acidity to balance. Picks up some leathery notes on the finish. But at the end of the evening, this is a rather simple, tannic, cedary wine that smells and tastes like a cigar humidor. About $60 on release.

Rioja, Bierzo, Venison....

NV Ca'Momi Ca'Secco Sparkling White Wine, California - pale golden color. Very soft, refreshing California take on Prosecco. Light lemony, tropical, floral aromas and flavors. Fine mousse with bubbles that dissipate rather quickly. Surprisingly nice acidity. A blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Muscat. Perfectly charming with cheese, summer sausage and crackers. 11.5% alcohol is a bit higher than most imported Prosecco so watch out. About $10



2009 Mohua Pinot Gris, Central Otago - Tremendous sweet melon notes on the nose and palate with a rich and oily texture. Terrific acidity. Really crisp and clean. Beautiful new world Pinot Gris for $15. I've never understood why I have such an affinity for Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer from New Zealand when I absolutely detest the Sauvignon Blancs from there.


2006 Bodega Abel Mendoza Seleccion Personal, Rioja - Still shows a pretty nice color in the center of the glass, but starting to go maroon around the edges. Tremendous smoky, vanilla-tinged raspberry fruit with considerable tannins and a good whiff of alcohol. I'm not sure what kind of oak this is aged in, but it doesn't show any of the nasty Bourbon/dill/coconut notes that generally turn me off from Rioja aged in cheap American barrels. Easily the best Rioja I've ever had and even better with the food. $60 purchased on clearance for $15.

2006 Casar de Burbia, D.O. Bierzo - Dark from core to rim. From the Mencia grape. Pretty nose of violets, wintergreen and crushed blue fruit. Quite rustic in the mouth with rocky blue fruit, ferocious tannins and a long, pleasantly herbaceous finish. Beautiful minerality throughout. I've had really nice examples of Mencias from Bierzo and some really bad ones and this is definitely in the "really nice" camp. Equally delicious with dinner. $30

For dinner I rubbed down a couple of venison backstraps with kosher salt and Montreal steak seasoning and grilled them over charcoal to a perfect medium rare. Meanwhile, I was making a red wine/red currant jelly reduction on the stove. Served with wild rice and garden fresh green beans sauteed with slivered almonds. A beautiful way to end a couple of weeks of my wife's family coming to visit.