2007 Alain Jaume "Les Valats" Cotes-du-Rhone

Opened the 2007 Alain Jaume Les Valats Rasteau, Cotes-du-Rhone Villages with tonight's bacon-wrapped/smoked pheasant breast. This negociant wine from Domaine Grand Veneur is a dense and chewy blend of 90% Grenache and 10% Syrah that nicely evolves in the glass over the course of a meal. Initially shows a lot of funky earth, campfire and meaty aromas and flavors. As it opens up in the glass, it reveals layers of dry cocoa, sweet/tart raspberry and hickory wood. Tannins are moderate at best, but the orange peel-flavored acidity is off the charts. Long, dry woody finish. Could develop into something nice with a couple of years in the cellar.

The pheasant was, in a word, superb. Might be the best pheasant I've ever grilled. I sprinkled each breast with kosher salt, black pepper and herbs de Provence before wrapping in a slice of apple wood smoked bacon. I then grilled the breasts (indirect heat) over charcoal augmented with apple wood chips. Sides were roasted sweet potatoes with butter and rosemary and a mixed green salad with an orange-Sherry vinaigrette.

2007 Hess Allomi Vyd. Cabernet

My small clutch of 2007 Hess Allomi Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley has been hit or miss; mostly miss. I drank my last bottle tonight and thankfully the relationship ended on something of a happy note. Consider it a break-up when both parties agree to part ways. Nothing to complain about with the color. Nose seems somewhat woody and stemmy, but there's plenty of sweet cherry fruit in there, too. The palate starts off nice and smooth, but turns tart and alcoholic on the finish. tannins are fierce, but I fear there isn't enough fruit for this wine to age very well. Finishes with lots of wood and dry bay leaf characteristics. Nice enough with dinner, but just a bit too dry and tart for my preferences. About $25.

Dinner was a delicious venison stroganoff made with meat from a doe I shot last week on my property during deer season. I've heard horror stories about how dry and tough venison meat is, but this was buttery tender. I'm not sure exactly which cut I used as the processor just labelled it "venison roast" but it resembled a smaller version of a beef rump roast.

Some really belated Thanksgiving notes...

Yikes! I just saw these languishing in a note on my iPhone. Perhaps they will be of use to those of you who enjoy a traditional Thanksgiving dinner (turkey, dressing, cranberries, etc., etc.) at Christmas, too:

2010 Esperto Pinot Grigio, IGT Venezie - Pretty nose of wet stone and red apples. Rich and full-bodied with a rocky, mineral-driven palate. Might be a bit one dimensional with the rocky stuff, but I kind of dig it. Really dry with good acidity.

2009 Garnet Pinot Noir, Monterrey - Distinctive for its unusual complexity for a Pinot Noir in this price range. Sweet cranberry and raspberry nose seamlessly moves into meaty/salami notes with a touch of sweet herb. Almost Rhone-like with the fruit profile, meat and spice notes. The fruit on the palate is a bit tart, but there's good acidity in there. A nice, food friendly style. $15

2009 Sean Minor Pinot Noir, Carneros - What more can I say about this wine? Still my favorite Pinot value with its effusive black cherry, vanilla and thyme notes. Medium bodied with nice tannins. Quite dry. A steal at $15

2009 Block Nine Caidens Vineyards Pinot Noir, California - Lightest color of the three Pinot Noirs. Dried bay leaf notes on the nose. Doesn't seem nearly as fruity as previous bottles. Dry cocoa and woody flavors on the palate. I need to try this again and see if this was just a bad bottle. A normally reliable $12

2010 Schug Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma Coast - This is another wine that seemed really atypical from previous enjoyable bottles. Very herbaceous compared to previous bottles with vegetal/tomato leaf and tart grapefruit aromas and flavors. Bright acidity, but a bit too New Zealand for my tastes. Where's the sweet California fruit and the floral Sauvignon Musque nose?

2008 Andrew Will Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley - This was a popular wine after dinner, but it isn't my cup of tea at all. Heavy American oak/coconut nose. Toasty, tart blackberry fruit on the palate eventually gives way to resurgent American oak. Dry cocoa finish. Monolithic. Seems quite formulaic to me. $15

2010 Tinto Negro Reserve Malbec

Had an interesting evening with the 2010 Tinto Negro Uco Valley Reserve Malbec, Mendoza tonight. Until tonight, I don't think I'd ever had an Uco Valley Malbec or any other Malbec described (according to the back label) as "cool climate." The color is as dark, if not darker than any other Malbec I've ever had. One of those wines so dark that it literally sucks the light out of the room. The nose is a melange of herbal cherry notes reminiscent of cherry cough syrup or Jagermeister. More cough syrup flavor on the palate accompanied by some odd carob and maple notes. No alcohol to note. Serious tannins. The wine is aged in French oak (10% new) for 9 months, but I don't detect any oak notes. About $20

Are those medicinal notes typical for cool climate Malbec? Not sure I really ejoyed this wine tonight with my BBQ turkey, baked beans and cole slaw, but it certainly was a unique learning experience.

Two from Spain

Tried a couple of Spanish wines on Saturday. The first was recommended to me by a customer who had special ordered a case and kindly let me buy a bottle. The Rioja is one of the wines we are featuring in our Wine of the Month club:

2010 Penelope Sanchez Garnacha/Syrah, D.O. Borja - Pretty magenta color. Heady, alcoholic, raspberry/mocha nose. Suffers a bit from that dry, herbal, "bay leaf" sensation on the palate. Nice $10 daily drinker, but nothing more. I'm a little confused by some of the critical praise for this one as I've had better Spanish Garnacha in this price range (Las Rocas, Menguante, Tres Picos)

2005 Marques de Caceras Reserva, Rioja - The anti-Rioja. Impenetrable color. Aged in 100% French oak that drifts towards smoke and vanilla rather than the normal aromas of pickle and Bourbon associated with Riojas aged in American hogsheads. Massive tannins. Leathery, blackberry palate with a subtle floral note. Should age quite well. A Rioja for those who prefer Cabernet Sauvignon to Pinot Noir. About $25.

2008 Dunning Private Reserve Syrah

We had the trip from hell on the way home from St. Louis today (90 minute standstill on I-70 do to a wreck, rained the entire time, restless kids, etc.) and didn't have a whole lot in the fridge/pantry to make for dinner once we got home. Quickly thawed out a couple of tuna steaks and added a beaten egg, some mayo, bread crumb, red onion and seasoning. Fried them in a little olive oil and turned them into some darn tasty tuna burgers. Topped them with a little mayo/chili-garlic sauce/lime juice. Needing something bold an assertive to accompany the tuna (and take the edge off the afternoon), I grabbed the first of my stash of 2008 Dunning Vineyards Private Reserve Syrah, Paso Robles.

I've had the 2005 and 2007 (numerous occasions) of this wine, but this is the first time I've had the 2008 since I tasted it from barrel in Paso about two years ago. So primal. So much potential. So delicious. The inkiest of black colors. The nose is still reminiscent of a barrel sample with grapey, yeasty, fermentation aromas with just a bit of coffee and French oak starting to peek through. Monstrous tannins on the palate are consistent with the previous vintage of this wine. Lots of dry cocoa, blackberry and black pepper on the palate, too. Wonderful acidity. Five years or so in the cellar and this should bloom into something beautiful. About $30

I'm currently sitting on four bottle of the '07 and one more '08, but I'm hoping to receive additional bottles of the '08 with the next shipment or two from Dunning.

2009 Morse Code Shiraz

The 2009 Henry's Drive Morse Code Shiraz, Padthway is, I suppose, all you can expect from a daily drinker from Down Under. Nothing to complain about with regards to the deep, lush color. A cup of the ubiquitous dark fruit (I used blackberry, feel free to substitute blueberry or black cherry if that's all you have), a tablespoon of spice, a scant teaspoon of cured meat and a pinch of citric acid and you've got the recipe for this one. To its credit, the wine sees no new oak and the tannins are negligible. Although the wine does not fall into the category of the syrupy, low acid/high alcohol Shiraz that Australia was so (in)famous for a decade ago, the fruit/acid balance here seems a bit, um, manipulated - kind of like sucking on a piece of sour candy. About $10

Perfectly decent with a jerk seasoned pork tenderloin grilled over my new favorite culinary discovery - coconut shell charcoal.