2009 Star Lane Sauvignon Blanc

Been gone for the last two weeks or so at two family reunions. In a fortuitous twist of fate, my wife's family was having their bi-annual reunion in Pigeon Forge, TN the week before my family's annual reunion in Panama City FL. So we did a few days in Tennessee (cooking, whitewater rafting, cigars, drinking) before heading south to spend some time with my family (beach, pool, go-karts). I had a couple of nice wines in Tennessee, but the situation didn't really lend itself to taking notes and blogging so I just let it slide.

Switching gears, I've never been a big fan of the Olympic Games opening ceremonies. I thin it's really campy and contrived; sort of like a 5-hour long Super Bowl halftime show. But my wife and kids really get into it, complete with a spread of heavy appetizers to nosh on during the show.

While we were on vacation, the store where I work hosted the winemaker from Star Lane/Dierberg/Three Sisters. One of the wines poured in my absence was their 2009 Star Lane Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara. Thinking it would work well with cheese, crackers and my beloved braised tomato/goat cheese crostini, I opened a bottle. The wine has something of an advanced, brassy color. In the nose I get copious amounts of floral, grassy, green bell pepper aromas reminiscent of the best New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs. As the wine opens up and warms, notes of bug spray develop. Quite tart in the mouth with grapefruit and green pepper flavors. Long, acidic finish. Although clean and well made, I really don't care for this style of Sauvignon Blanc. I was really expecting something different Something a little richer with peachy notes, perhaps?) from a partially oak-aged Sauvignon Blanc from Santa Barbara. C'est la vie! About $16.

Arizona Stronghold wines.....

Arizona Stronghold is a very interesting concept. Co-owners Eric Glomski (former winemaker at David Bruce) and Maynard Keenan (Caduceus Cellars, lead singer of the band "Tool") teamed up in 2007 with the goal of overhauling the rundown Dos Cabezas Vineyard near Wilcox, AZ and making fine wines from grapes in Arizona. They took a chance on hiring an unknown winemaker, Tim White, from a winery in Virginia and they haven't looked back. I love the fact that they are primarily doing this with Rhone, Iberian and Italian grapes rather than trying to force the issue with Cabernet and Merlot.

Last week, the retailer I work for hosted a screening of "Blood Into Wine," a documentary about Glomski's and Keenan's efforts at making serious wine in Arizona. Of course, a selection of Arizona Stronghold wines were poured for guests to enjoy during the movie. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to attend the screening/tasting. But out of curiosity, I bought a few bottles to review on my own:

2010 Arizona Stronghold Mangus Red Table Wine, Cochise County (Arizona) - 71% Sangiovese, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Malbec, 3% Petite Verdot and 2% Merlot. Has the kind of light ruby color that one would expect from a Sangiovese. Varietally-correct nose of dust, tart cherry and sweet licorice. Seems rather oaky. Tart red fruits carry the palate and there is a nice core of refreshing acidity that just doesn't quit. Although the buttery oak says "this isn't from Tuscany," I think I would still nail this as a Sangiovese if I tasted this blind. And considering the source, I think that's saying a lot about the winemaker. I've had plenty of domestic Sangioveses that aren't nearly this true to its roots. Well done and perfect with a meaty take-out pizza. You can probably find better Chianti for the same price, but I don't think $24 is out of line for a wine of this quality.

2010 Arizona Stronghold Dayden Pink Table Wine, Graham County (Arizona) - A bone dry blend of 89% Zinfandel, 9% Sangiovese and 2% Petite Sirah that should appeal to fans of old world rose from the south of France. Rusty, coppery color belies the wine's lightness and freshness. Beautiful aromatics of spice, watermelon, tart strawberry and orange citrus. On the palate, the wine is lithe and tart with prickly acidity and a long, stony finish. Thoroughly enjoyable with ceviche (bay scallops, swai, shrimp, lime juice, garlic, shallots, cilantro and avocado) and no complaints about the $16 price tag.

2010 Arizona Stronghold Dala Cabernet Sauvignon, Graham County (Arizona) - Rather light, Pinot-ish color isn't very promising. Sweet-tart cherry and wintergreen on the nose tells me this is going to be a rather light interpretation of Cabernet. Nose follows through onto the palate with tart cherry and watermelon notes punctuated with harsh oak and rough tannins. I have to say, this is by far my least favorite of the Stronghold line-up. $21

2010 Stronghold Vineyards Mandala Red Table Wine, America - I opened this after the disappointment of the Dala Cabernet. Opens with a deep color that actually leaves a little stain on the glass as it drips down after a good swirl. Very rustic, old school nose of tart blackberry, green peppercorn and a good whiff of alcohol. Turns a bit richer on the palate with cocoa and chocolate notes to accompany the blackberry and serious black pepper notes. Nice acidity and tannins in here. 39% Cinsault, 25% Syrah, 25% Petite Syrah, 5% Counoise, 4% Grenache and 2% Viognier from vineyards in Napa Valley and Paso Robles. At $22, this was thoroughly enjoyable with a venison and root vegetable pot pie. I'm curious as to why a wine from Napa and Paso would be labeled as simply "American." I wonder if they have plans to eventually shift this to a blend of California and Arizona fruit?

2009 Revelry Merlot

I can't disagree with the winemaker (or whoever wrote the label descriptor) for the 2009 Revelry Vintners Merlot, Columbia Valley. Whoever it was absolutely nailed it with descriptors of blueberry, cherry spice, cocoa and subtle oak. Medium-bodied with that tell-tale "hollow" mid-palate aspect that generally afflicts Merlot. Turns a bit green on the finish. But overall, I really like this for about $15 and it was quite nice with a grilled tri-tip. I'm very appreciative of the fact that the American oak doesn't in any way intrude on the fruit with any off-flavors of Bourbon or dill. Moderate tannins, but don't age this. Pop a cork and enjoy now!

Dandelion Vineyards Tasting

These are notes from a tasting I attended (work function) with winemaker Elena Brooks of Australia's Dandelion Vineyards on June 4. Dandelion is a relatively new operation with a pretty darn nice pedigree. I wish I could remember the details, but I believe the vineyard manager goes back a long way with d'Arenberg and some of their more impressive high-end offerings. Brooks, originally from Eastern Europe, trained at wineries all over the world before calling Australia home. Fuzzy details notwithstanding, these are excellent, single vineyard, terroir-driven wines at more than reasonable prices.

Incidentally, the word Dandelion comes from the French "Dent de Lion" (lion's tooth); hence all of the lion references in the names of the wines.

2010 Dandelion Vineyards Wonderland of the Eden Valley Riesling, Eden Valley - 100% free run juice from grapes grown in sandy, quartz-based soils. Quite minerally from start to finish with green apple and white flower notes on the nose and palate. Bone dry with a yeasty finish and fantastic acidity. I think this has some potential to age. A great option for those who like their Rieslings without traces of petroleum. $22

2009 Dandelion Vineyards Lion's Tooth of the McLaren Vale Shiraz/Riesling, McLaren Vale and Eden Valley - Shiraz co-fermented with the skins from the Dandelion Riesling. Primary and lusty with crazy berry, smoke, vanilla and licorice in addition to the yeasty/fermentation notes. The palate shows good fruit and secondary concentration, but it isn't quite as ripe as the nose would suggest. A delicate, floral perfume (no doubt from the Riesling) becomes more prominent as the wine opens up. Long French oak finish. $22

2010 Dandelion Vineyards Lionheart of the Barossa Shiraz, Barossa Valley - Staggering purple/crimson color. Very spicy with pepper and fruitcake aromas and flavors. The palate is supremely concentrated with coffee, cough syrup, dry cocoa flavors that trend towards wintergreen with air exposure. Firmly tannic. The antithesis to the deep, smoky berry found on the Lion's Tooth. $22

2009 Dandelion Vineyards Pride of the Fleurieu Peninsula Cabernet Sauvignon, South Australia - Austere and lean with sweet/tart cranberry and cherry fruit and a distinct green tobacco/herbaceousness. Telltale green peppercorn/wintergreen notes that just scream "cool climate Cabernet." Has the tannins to age. While I can appreciate the Old World style the winemaker was shooting for here, I have to admit this is not my preferred style of Cabernet Sauvignon. $22

2008 Four Vines "Anarchy" and Duck

I really love duck. I eat it every time I see it on a restaurant menu and I make it rather frequently at home. But I always seem to have the breast seared to medium-rare with some sort of savory sauce (green peppercorn/cream/brandy is my favorite) or I enjoy the leg/thigh quarter as confit. So I wanted to try something different with the duck I bought last week. I ended up smoking it over maple wood and basting frequently with a soy/molasses/sambal glaze. I was quite nervous about smoking a duck (for nearly 3 hours!) to well done, but my fears were unfounded. The duck was moist and delicious with a beautiful pink smoke ring and an amazing, sticky skin. Wow! Just tremendous!

The wine for the evening was the 2008 Four Vines Anarchy, Paso Robles. I wanted something assertive to stand up to the bold, smoky flavors of the duck and I wasn't disappointed. This blend of Zinfandel (36%), Mourvedre (35%) and Syrah (29%) is a bit lighter than I would have expected. Decent medium cranberry hue, but no inky blackness. The nose is an amazing array of roasted meat, Provencal herb, raspberry and pomegranate molasses. The sweet herb and fruity molasses flavors carry through to the palate where medium tannins and electrifying acidity carry the day. The finish goes on for nearly a minute. The molasses notes nicely reflect the flavors of the duck glaze and the acidity is particularly lovely with the fatty duck skin. Just a perfect food and wine pairing. Regularly $40, but purchased on sale for $30 last spring in Atlanta.