2009 Loring, 2010 Sean Minor Pinot Noirs

2009 Loring Wine Company Keefer Ranch Vineyard Pinot Noir, Green Valley of Russian River Valley - A Pinot Noir of almost Zinfandel-like proportions. Incredibly deep color. Rich, ripe, blueberry and cherry aromatics punctuated by black pepper, sweet herbs and light licorice flavors. Quite full-bodied with solid tannins and nice acidity. Really carries the 14.9% alcohol well. Not for traditionalists or Burgundy drinkers, but I absolutely love this stuff. One of the few single vineyard Loring Pinots available in Kansas, this retails for $50.

2010 Sean Minor Pinot Noir, Carneros - Classic light- to medium-bodied Carneros notes of strawberry and vanilla with light herbal undertones. Beautifully balanced on the palate with sweet-tart red fruit and pretty herbal shadings. This was my first taste of the 2010 Carneros bottling. Consistent with previous vintages of this, one of my favorite values in California Pinot Noir. With the 2010 vintage Sean Minor has split his Pinot Noir pricing with a Central Coast holding the line at $15 and the Carneros bottling checking in at just under $20.

For dinner I served a delicious spice-rubbed, grilled pork tenderloin with wild rice pilaf and braised Brussels sprouts. Both wines were very nice with the smoky, assertively-seasoned pork.

Some Wines from Memorial Day Weekend

2008 Austrian Pepper Gruner Veltliner, Niederosterreich - Just lovely. Beautiful nose of green apple, candle wax and petroleum. Palate mimics the nose with waxy, floral, orchard fruit notes and electrifying acidity. Texturally pleasing with a zippy, peppery finish that nips the tip of the tongue. Normally $15, marked down to a ridiculous $3.

2006 Pirathon Shiraz, Barossa - Super dark color that stains the glass as swirling subsides. Loads of Bourbon, licorice, smoke and black fruits on the nose and palate. Quite concentrated, yet nicely balanced by the acidity and tannins. Probably appealing to fans of this style, but not my thing. Regularly $26, marked down to $7.

2009 Chateau de Segries, Cotes du Rhone - Still over-delivering delicious raspberry-laced Grenache fruit and black pepper with undertones of earthy barnyard. Moderate acidity and tannins tell me this needs to be drunk soon. One bottle left in the cellar that won't be there much longer. Great with Coq au Vin. $13

2009 The Dreaming Tree Crush Red Wine, North Coast - Effusive blueberry and black pepper on the nose and palate here with a good bit of residual sugar. Finishes with a long, green, bay leaf-like note and drying tannins. A blend of 67% Merlot and 33% Zinfandel. A project of Dave Matthews and Steve Reeder, winemaker at Simi. Nothing complex here, but would make a nice partner for a burger or pizza. Very similar in style to the jammy Apothic Red. About $12

Last night (Sunday) was our 2nd Annual Memorial Day Paella Feast. We invited a couple of friends over to enjoy paella and wine with us and my wife's father. We offered two paellas: my father-in-law's cooked indoors with venison sausage and a myriad of shellfish (oysters, clams, shrimp, crawfish) and mine cooked outside over an open fire with chorizo, chicken and green beans. Both were delicious. With the two paellas we enjoyed a true embarrassment of riches. Notes are brief as I wrote them from an admittedly fuzzy memory on Monday morning:

NV Riondo Spago Nero DOC Prosecco - Drinking as deliciously as ever. Light and fizzy with intoxicating pear and ginger notes. Goes down way too easily. $10

2010 Cannonball Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County - Very different from previous bottles, yet still very nice. The sweet, peachy fruit was AWOL last night, replaced by lemony, mineral flavors. My friend Alex said "Very French in style." Pleasantly herbaceous. About $12

2010 Chateau de Campuget Tradition de Campuget rose, Costieres de Nimes - How lovely was this bone dry blend of 70% Syrah and 30% Grenache? Pale pink in color with juicy red berry and light underbrush flavors. $6? Are you kidding me? I could drink this all summer long.

2005 Mount Veeder Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley - Mount Veeder Winery's Cabernet Sauvignon was one of our original "splurge" wines when my wife and I were dating in the early 90s. Every once in a while we'd drop $20 on an '87 or '90. I was delighted to see our friends (and business partners) Chris and Janice bring a bottle of '05. Deep color with even deeper notes of tart blackberry and cocoa with monstrous tannins that beg for another 5-10 years in the cellar. About $30

2010 King Estate Signature Collection Viognier, Oregon - All of the rich, floral, peachy notes one could ever want from a domestic Viognier. Widely available and imminently gulpable.

2008 King Estate Domaine Pinot Gris, Oregon - Easily the best domestic Pinot Gris I've ever had. Layers of yeast, mineral, orange-tinted fruit and an incomparable richness. A truly stunning Oregon Pinot Gris available only at the winery. As good as it is, $40 is rather steep.

2008 Trenza Tinto, San Luis Obispo County - 35% Syrah, 31% Grenache, 22% Tempranillo and 12% Mourvedre. Seems to have shed most of its youthful fruit. An undistinguished showing.

2007 Dunning Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles - Massive and powerful, the licorice, cocoa and sweet French oak flavors were overshadowing the dark black fruits last night. Always a pleasure....

Seared Scallops and Two Older Whites

Tonight was my wife's 43rd birthday and she requested seared scallops over pureed cauliflower and a salad from the garden. We opened two older white wines that my father-in-law brought:

2004 Au Bon Climat Hildegard Estate Bottled White Table Wine, Santa Maria Valley - A new wine to me. Over the years I've had a number of Pinot Noirs and other white wines from ABC, but I've never had their top-of-the-line blend of Pinot Gris (73%), Pinot Blanc (23%) and Aligote (4%). Amazingly youthful color. I defy anyone to look at this in the glass and guess "8 year old Pinot Gris." Beautiful lemon oil and roasted peanut notes on the nose. Deliciously oily palate with nice mineral flavors. Normally $40, purchased on closeout for $9.99. Really hitting its stride about now.

2006 Cuvaison ATS Selection Chardonnay, Carneros - Thanks to my father-in-law I've had multiple vintages of this, Cuvaison's top Chardonnay bottling. But I don't recall one ever being this balanced and restrained. Beautiful color shows no sign of age. Light tropical, pineapple, buttery nose lets you now this is a California Chardonnay. Subtle hint of fennel bulb adds unexpected complexity. Rich and creamy on the palate, but there's plenty of acidity here to carry the full-bodied, toasty oak notes. Bit of burned matchstick on the bitter finish. Not terribly complex, but a wonderful pairing with the food. $55 on release ($40 to club members).

A Titanic Battle of 2008 Cabernet Francs......

The father-in-law is in town and that means I have to up my game with the food, wine and food & wine. Tonight's dinner was grilled tri-tip with garden-fresh broccoli (amazing!), couscous and garden-fresh chimichurri. Thinking the herbaceous chimichurri sauce would pair well with Cabernet Franc, I pulled one of mine and one that my father-in-law brought.

My contribution was the 2008 Dunning Vineyards Private Reserve Cabernet Franc, Paso Robles. Beautiful, impenetrable color hints at the wine's power and extraction. Wonderfully rustic notes of blackberry, licorice, sweet Provencal herb and a touch of roasted meat. Palate pretty much mimics the nose with huge tannins and nicely balanced acidity. Dusty finish goes on and on and on. A stunning example of Paso Robles Cabernet Franc. I can't remember what I paid for this, but I suspect it was around $30. I've been in Dunning's wine club for about 3 years now and this is the only bottle of this wine I've received so far. I really, really hope there is more forthcoming.

As delicious as the Dunning was, I have to say it was upstaged by the 2008 Justin Vineyards Justification, Paso Robles. This blend of 65% Cabernet Franc and 35% Merlot pours a light, uninspiring color. But the nose - oh, my god, the nose! The sugary blueberry cobbler brings to mind the heretofore incomparable 1994 Shafer Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon, perhaps the greatest wine I've ever had. Tremendous blue and black fruits on the palate with considerable licorice and thyme. Moderate tannins suggest this might not age quite as well as the Dunning, but both as drinking so well tonight that I wouldn't bother aging either one. Normally about $50, but purchased by my father-in-law for $19.99.

There were no losers on the table this evening. Had the Justin not been there, I would still be turning cartwheels at the awesomeness of the Dunning. But the Justification just took everything to another plane. Not that I've been in a rut or anything, but this was one of those nights that just reaffirms my passion for the grape.

Mixed Bag.......

2008 Cameron Hughes Zin Your Face Zinfandel, California - The label claims this wine is "spicy, jammy and yummy." Well, I'll give it the "jammy" bit, but that's about as far as I can go. Borderline sweet with the jammy, raisiny aromas and flavors, but that's about it. A bit alcoholic and harsh on the finish. Not a bad wine for $10, but doesn't really do anything to distinguish itself from a sea of average wines.

2007 Renwood Cranky Old Vine Zinfandel, California - Light in color, aroma and flavor. Merlot-like in its mediocrity with the light, stemmy, cherry notes and nonexistent finish. Seems really unripe. My father-in-law says this is regularly priced at $17, but he purchased it on closeout for $8. It might be worth the $8.

NV Bookwalter Winery Bookmark, Columbia Valley - This multi-vintage blend is mostly Merlot with lesser percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. There's a lot of plummy fruit in here, but it's buried underneath an avalanche of hickory-scented campfire oak. Substantial fruit, but little complexity or tannins here. Finishes a bit green. About $10

2008 Seghesio Barbera, Alexander Valley - Deep color. Rather bizarre nose of graham cracker, raspberry and licorice. (I think it's the graham cracker that's throwing me off here.) Lots of tart raspberry and licorice on the palate with substantial tannins. Delicious with venison meatballs in tomato sauce over pasta, but the significant acidity makes it a little difficult to enjoy on its own. Regularly $20, but purchased on closeout for $9. Highly recommended with food, even at the regular retail price.

2010 Charles & Charles Rose, Columbia Valley - This 100% Syrah rose continues to impress with its deep color and concentrated mint, strawberry and cherry nose and palate. Bone dry with prickly acidity, this is a pleasure to enjoy at a summer cookout. I've enjoyed numerous vintages of this wine and wouldn't hesitate to recommend it under any circumstances. $10

Quandary.....

I haven't said anything yet because I didn't want to let the cat out of the bag too soon, but I think it's safe to come clean now. For the past few months I've been working up a business plan to start my own small wine wholesale business in Kansas. My partner and I are far enough along in the process now that it's definitely going to happen. Most of the paperwork is filed, I've started talking to wineries, we have a domaine name, business account, an attorney and a graphic designer working on our logo. For better or worse, we've reached the point of no return. We've crossed the Rubicon. I'll be partnering 50/50 with the husband of one of my wife's dear business associates. Chris is an IT guy who loves to crunch numbers - things I'm loathe to do. He will handle all of the operations, web design, tax reporting, etc. leaving me able to devote 100% of my time to wine sales and deliveries. I think it is an ideal distribution of responsibilities.

I think I've planned this thing conservatively enough that expectations are realistic. It should be profitable from the get-go, but just so. Slow and steady growth will be the key to our success. I don't have any insane expectations of competing with the big boys and their deep pockets. I don't have any false hopes of stealing Mondavi or Gallo from a competitor's portfolio. I want to start off with 6-8 small wineries and grow the business from there.

That leaves me with the question of what to do with this blog, my constant companion of the last 3+ years. Ethically, I'm uncomfortable posting glowing reviews of every wine in my soon-to-be portfolio. But once the business is up and running, I'll also be selfishly hestiant to devote much cyberspace to praising wines carried by my competitors. What say you, my legions of adoring fans JFO, Dennis and Claire? Is there room for compromise? A disclaimer to preface my own wines? Somehow, I think even that would be uncomfortably self-serving. Claire, do you have a different approach to blogging about wines you do or don't represent?

We've chosen the name Amphora Distribution, LLC for our company. My wife originally came up with the name and I liked it the second I heard it. In fact, I didn't even really consider anything after hearing that. I love the historical reference to the vessel that ancient Greeks and Romans used to ship their wine in. And it's certainly appropriate for someone in the business of selling and delivering wine.

I'll release more details as contracts are signed and cases are being stacked in the warehouse. Until then, I'm open to any good thoughts or advice you care to spare.....

2009 Iris Vineyards Pinot Gris

2009 Iris Vineyards Pinot Gris, Oregon - Very pale color with brassy highlights. Beautiful nose and palate of citrus rind, white flower and a sur lie yeastiness. Quite rich on the palate, but retains an acidic freshness throughout. No real complexity here, but charming nonetheless. Pleasantly bitter finish. Drinks better as it approaches room temperature.

As a so-called "wine professional" I know I'm not supposed to be swayed by labels, but I can't help but comment on the catchy black/purple/red/yellow graphics. A very striking package.

2007 Three Saints "Sixty-Seven"

To be honest, I wasn't prepared for the 2007 Three Saints Sixty-Seven, Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara to be quite this full-bodied. When I think of Santa Barbara, I think of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, not Bordeaux-style blends. I was thinking this wine would be rather frail and weak, but boy was I wrong. Deep, murky maroon color. Huge nose of baker's chocolate, anise and red fruit with hints of eucalyptus and bay leaf (probably from the Cabernet Franc). Quite full-bodied with monstrous, drying tannins; tannins that nearly bury the red and black fruits and anise on the palate. Long dusty, tannic finish that would make vintners in Rutherford jealous. Although aged in Taransaud oak (60% new), perplexing American oak-like notes of Bourbon and dill come to the forefront after an hour or so. A very interesting, surprisingly full-bodied blend of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc, 8% Merlot, 5% Syrah, 4% Petit Verdot and 1% Malbec from a region not known for this style blend. About $20.

Owned by the Dierburg family who also oversees the Hermannhof Winery in Hermann, Missouri. More than held its own with my wife's requested Mother's Day meal of grilled flank steak, sauteed spinach and roasted sweet potatoes.

2009 Vina Robles Red 4

I hope no one from Dairy Queen reads this and sues me for using their word, but the 2009 Vina Robles Red 4, Paso Robles is scrumpdillicious! Beautifully deep color and legs that stain the side of a big ol' Riedel stem. Chocolate-covered cherries on the nose and palate with a healthy sprinkle of fresh-cracked black pepper. Good bit of sweet fennel bulb and baking spice lurking in the shadows as well. Really long, dry, dusty, cocoa-like finish with more substantial tannins than you would expect for a $15 wine. Nice acidity, too. Not sure what the oak program is with this wine, but it isn't noticeable. A tremendously drinkable and food-friendly blend of 42% Petite Sirah, 28% Grenache, 22% Syrah and 8% Mourvedre.

Dinner was my not-yet-famous "mixed grill." I grill up a couple of links of Italian sausage and while they are relaxing, I throw on a mess of sliced zucchini, yellow squash and eggplant bathed in olive oil and spices. Then slice everything and serve over a bed of soft, cheesy polenta with a dollop of tomato sauce. Parmesan cheese and a sprinkle of garden-fresh Italian parsley for garnish. (I always dust mine with some crushed red pepper flakes, too.)

2010 Fabre Montmayou Malbec

I don't think I'm exaggerating when I say the 2010 Fabre Montmayou Malbec Reserva, Mendoza is the most intense Malbec I've ever had. Impenetrable color. Zinfandel-like extraction featuring aromas of blueberry, blackberry, licorice, coffee grounds and black pepper. Terrific fruit concentration follows through on the palate and ups the ante with a hint of green tobacco. Seamless integration of fruit, tannin and acidity. Long tobacco-like finish. I chalk up the fruit intensity to the fact that approximately 40% of this wine is aged in French oak while the remainder is tank-raised. About $15

A flat-out beautiful pairing with red peppers stuffed with ground venison, leftover rice and spices.

2008 Four Vines "Heretic" Petite Sirah

We enjoyed a nearly perfect food and wine pairing tonight with venison backstrap and a bottle of 2008 Four Vines Heretic Petite Sirah, Paso Robles. Quite cloudy in appearance, but that isn't really a problem with me when dealing with a wine like this. Uncanny blackberry jam, cream and French roast coffee leap from the glass. Unctuous, gelatinous texture features loads of dark cocoa and blackberry liqueur. Doesn't try to hide the 14.8% alcohol. Massive tannins are balanced by deft acidity. Dry cocoa finish goes on and on. This is an absolutely stellar example of a high octane Petite Sirah. Purchased on sale for $30, regularly $40.

For dinner I pan-seared tournadoes of venison loin in a little bit of olive oil to rare. After removing them from the pan to rest, I added shallots and chopped garlic and let them cook for a minute or two. Then I added some inexpensive red wine (no, I'm not an advocate of cooking with the wine that you're drinking with dinner) and strained the concoction to a clean pan. Then I added a few tablespoons of good blackberry preserves and a touch of heavy cream and let everything reduce to the right consistency. Seasoning adjusted, I finished the sauce by returning the juices from the resting meat.